Project Guitar of The Month - May 2010 - DIY Repairs and Modds Focus

Overdue.. PGOTM May/June ... Polls Up

  • taypeng81's Cr Ch 335 S Hollow

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • dodgethis' BPG Candy Strat

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • middleman's matt black strat

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    6
  • Poll closed .

obzervr

New member
Hi DIYers,

Apologies for the long absence. Manpower issues at work lah.

Ok... let us not make the month of May go to waste...

Post your projects especially DIY Repairs and Modds.

Open till 31st May 2010. extension possible on popular demand :p

eieio and fgl, you are now like the DIY GODFATHERS. any comments?

suggestions anyone on the prize?

regards,
Obzervr
 
Here's mine...

Stock.

IMG_4406.jpg


IMG_4416.jpg


IMG_4421.jpg


Modded.

P2070224.jpg


P2070229.jpg


P5170195.jpg


P5220230.jpg


P5220239.jpg


P5170219.jpg


P5170198.jpg



List of mods made

1. Replaced EMG808s with Passive humbuckers.
2. Overhauled electronics
3. Stripped the finished off the back, sides and neck.
4. Took a rasp to the cutaway to make it more accessible.
5. Tru Oil-ed the bare wood.
 
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Wow Mr Cow,
Truly impressive!!!
Can share with us the process of paint stripping?
Any reason for not stripping the back of the headstock?

You already have my vote for MAY !

I sponsor a set of brand new 8 strings for this month's winner.......when stocks arrive at SL.
 
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Can share with us the process of paint stripping?
Any reason for not stripping the back of the headstock?

Sure. Basically - its a nightmare. I didn't do the stripping - a friend of mine did and I paid him to. It was crazy work. The clear coat and paint comes off easily enough but the sealer underneath is stupid hard. I used 60 grit and after 4 hours, I managed to get about 10% - 15% of the back (alone!) down to bare wood. My friend remarked that the cutaways were the hardest parts.
By the way, paint stripper didn't do nuts to the sealer layer... and you need a mask or your snot will turn *insert whatever colour of paint you're sanding off*.

I didn't strip the back of the headstock because I thought the headstock should remain sturdy. The sealer/paint layer is very thick (I'm guessing 0.5 - 0.8 mm thick) plus it's hard - that's a good reinforcement for the headstock since this is an 8 string guitar.
 
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nice, can intro your friend?
what is tru oil & where can i get it?

Heh, I'd let him intro himself if he wants to. :)

Tru Oil is by birchwood & casey. It's an oil finish meant for gun stocks but works FABULOUS on any other wood. Easy to apply (this time I used my fingers) with minimal fuss for a very very very thin finish. Enhances the wood and lets stuff breath. Easy to dent too.

how to play 8 string?
i mean how is the tuning like? abcdefgh?
:p

Play like this?


The tuning in the video is eBGDAE standard then a low B (like a regular 7 string) and a lower F#.
 
Shredcow,
i am tempted to strip bare back of my guit too..
should i get tru or tung? any pros & cons to consider?

:confused:

by the way,
guess what kind of nest u call this?
commonly found at our old kampong houses..

5e638e84.jpg
 
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Shredcow,
i am tempted to strip bare back of my guit too..
should i get tru or tung? any pros & cons to consider?

Go ahead but note that the tone will probably change. If your original finish is some thick poly with filler, you'lre going to have a warmer tone.

I have never worked with tung.

Tru Oil is very very very easy to work with. Google it up and you'll find plenty of good comments and instructions on how to apply it. If you got the patience (as in months of work) then you should apply the Tru Oil in as thin layers as possible... that would rock.

IMG_2024.jpg
 
Well, I mean the warsps are clever....hahaha. I guess they have vacated long time ago liao.
Use a test pen to scrape off the nest and then toothbrush off the rest...it should work bah...
 
This just came in the mail 2 wks ago... can count as DIY job? heheh
crappy china made 335-copy.
P1110407.jpg


stripped the hardware and started work on the back. wanted to do a red stain but the wood wont take water-based stain. the 2-1 gel stain and nitro lacquer wont dry hard. sigh.
IMG_0496.jpg


stripped the red paint and simply and spray painted with black metallic paint. but has a fret buzz on 5-8 fret..zzz not entirely sure how to go abt fixing it. if i can get it working, its going to be loaded with GFS pups

IMG_0498.jpg

IMG_0497.jpg
 
Go ahead but note that the tone will probably change. If your original finish is some thick poly with filler, you'lre going to have a warmer tone.

I have never worked with tung.

Tru Oil is very very very easy to work with. Google it up and you'll find plenty of good comments and instructions on how to apply it. If you got the patience (as in months of work) then you should apply the Tru Oil in as thin layers as possible... that would rock.

so that's your formula for staining figured tops! I want to get that sort of in your face flames finish but just that I want to do colours. teach me leh, I'm serious!

alternative, show me some good websites! stewmac can only teach so much.
 
i can pm you the contact/price but i really dont recommend that you get from them. it looks good on the outside but the internal construction is terrible, frets not properly level...im actually looking for someone to do a kit like this. will put an update on soft if i manage to find a good supplier.
 
so that's your formula for staining figured tops! I want to get that sort of in your face flames finish but just that I want to do colours. teach me leh, I'm serious!

alternative, show me some good websites! stewmac can only teach so much.

I don't have a formula lahhh :P This is the only finish i know how to apply! Heh.

Tru Oil does (sorta) age ... turns into a deep golden hue with time. Certainly mellows and highlights figured maple methinks.
 
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