Tension increased.
- Thread starter Kwerty
- Start date
Just liked the sound when I tried my friend's lespaul. It was on 11s. For some reason his tension was better even if it was on a tuno. Heard from someone, tuno guitars have higher tension as when u bend, the bridge doesn't go upwards like strats or floyd rose.
So yeah. Btw when you say set up, do you mean like fret leveling etc? Complete set up? It's gonna cost a bomb ye?
So yeah. Btw when you say set up, do you mean like fret leveling etc? Complete set up? It's gonna cost a bomb ye?
snuffleupagus
New member
I dunno why but I feel that my tone rings out more when i use 10's instead of 9's.
could be psychological. :wink:
could be psychological. :wink:
Kwerty said:
LPs have a short neck scale, so string tension is less. 10s on an LP will feel like 9s on a 25.5" floyd equipped guitar.
And yes, you are correct about TOM bridge, or basically any fixed bridge.
Kwerty said:
Fret leveling is not included in a "normal" setup. And it should not be.. its not some simple shave off a bit here and there procedure.
Standard setups will not have any filing, refretting, refinishing kind of things, just neck adjustment, intonation, bridge adjustment, pup heigh, so on. Pretty cheap.
Well if it is the usual normal set up, yeah it's been sent to one of my friends in Luther.
I'm just curious, I came across guitars with extremely low action (To be specific, those guitars sent to Malcolm). Basically when you touch a string on any frets, it rings. Plus, the tension is extremely low. I do know that if the action of a guitar is too low, you lose what you called the "tone". Will the result of that particular set-up cause the losing of the tone?
What I understand is, if you lower the current action and adjust the truss rod, the sound will be "eaten up" in certain way yes, but for Malcolm's set-up, it's a professional set up am I right? Does he file down certain frets or anything to allow no buzzings etc? I'm not sure what he does but his work really impress me.
And also, is it a reversible process?
I'm just curious, I came across guitars with extremely low action (To be specific, those guitars sent to Malcolm). Basically when you touch a string on any frets, it rings. Plus, the tension is extremely low. I do know that if the action of a guitar is too low, you lose what you called the "tone". Will the result of that particular set-up cause the losing of the tone?
What I understand is, if you lower the current action and adjust the truss rod, the sound will be "eaten up" in certain way yes, but for Malcolm's set-up, it's a professional set up am I right? Does he file down certain frets or anything to allow no buzzings etc? I'm not sure what he does but his work really impress me.
And also, is it a reversible process?
Malcom will not work on your guitar without your approval and pior knowledge. He will NOT do it. You have my word on it.
Besides, he'll have ot charge anyway.
Basically, there is a difference between FRETBUZZ and FRET RATTLE. What I think you are talking about is FRET RATTLE... steel strings on metal frets definately will result in some form of rattle unless you raise the strings sky high.
FRET RATTLE will not come out of the amp
FRET BUZZ will come out of the amp
Yeah, the lower the action, more rattle and so the string doesn't have the full degree of oscilliation so it kind of gets choked. However, if your frets are good, level, and your neck is straight, you gotta really move your strings down LOW, like less than 1/8th of an inch from 1st fret to 22nd fret (which is what I can do to my Malcom setup & refretted axe.) which is action that will make Satriani proud.
Unless you dislike hearing the rattle of strings, getting a low (not stupid low like the above ) action is great. Otherwise, its a matter of preference.
Besides, he'll have ot charge anyway.
Basically, there is a difference between FRETBUZZ and FRET RATTLE. What I think you are talking about is FRET RATTLE... steel strings on metal frets definately will result in some form of rattle unless you raise the strings sky high.
FRET RATTLE will not come out of the amp
FRET BUZZ will come out of the amp
Yeah, the lower the action, more rattle and so the string doesn't have the full degree of oscilliation so it kind of gets choked. However, if your frets are good, level, and your neck is straight, you gotta really move your strings down LOW, like less than 1/8th of an inch from 1st fret to 22nd fret (which is what I can do to my Malcom setup & refretted axe.) which is action that will make Satriani proud.
Unless you dislike hearing the rattle of strings, getting a low (not stupid low like the above
) action is great. Otherwise, its a matter of preference.Oooo... so it comes out of the amp! You sure? Just making sure... you have to turn your amp up to hear whats coming out of the amp not the acoustics from your guitar...
What does Malcom do?
Same thing everyone does. Except he has wayyyyy more experience and has been schooled in it.
What does Malcom do?
Same thing everyone does. Except he has wayyyyy more experience and has been schooled in it.
hmm.. i prefer using .10.. true it gives fuller tone.. but i do a lot of drop tunings... anyway, for me, .9 on FR equipped axes and .10 on my lp... gives better tone..
but lets say i use .10 on my FR equpiied axes, but i play a lot of drop tunings, will the fr still have smooth and not stiff movement??
but lets say i use .10 on my FR equpiied axes, but i play a lot of drop tunings, will the fr still have smooth and not stiff movement??
ShredCow said:
Yeap that was what the guy told me. So he said if I wanna "sui sui" guitar, gotta go through some fret leveling. But considering it is a pretty new guitar yeah, I guess I have to just blame the workmanship?
Anyway can anyone tell me what does PROFESSIONAL set up include?
Normal set up = Adjust pickup heights, string action, intonation etc.
And PROFESSIONAL set up?
Well, unless your guitar was some hand made model, or model that went thru a PLEK, like a Suhr, you can expect uneven frets.
I dont' think you should classify a setup like so.. its too vague.. I can tell you my idea of what a standard setup is, but to some other tech, he might just take the liberty of shaving your frets.
Just note... perhaps.. a standard setup is like as you mentioned, but above that, permission should be given before embarking because it will alter your guitar irreversibilly...
1) Fret Leveling
2) Nut leveling, slot widening, replacements
3) Refrets
4) Sanding fretboard
Thats what comes off my head.
I dont' think you should classify a setup like so.. its too vague.. I can tell you my idea of what a standard setup is, but to some other tech, he might just take the liberty of shaving your frets.
Just note... perhaps.. a standard setup is like as you mentioned, but above that, permission should be given before embarking because it will alter your guitar irreversibilly...
1) Fret Leveling
2) Nut leveling, slot widening, replacements
3) Refrets
4) Sanding fretboard
Thats what comes off my head.
well, okay... just ask the tech what he does?
But seriously,
Nut height (if locking nut, increase height only, any other nut, cannot touch)
Bridge adjustment
Neck relief
Is a MUST for a simple setup.
Then
Intonation (must have good tuner... duh. :wink: )
Pup height...
Usually thrown in...
The rest:
Nut adjustments (for regular nuts or lowering locking nut)
Anything that will alter frets
Anything that involves shaving metal parts
Anything that takes off wood
Would cost more and is not usually part of a "standard" setup.
Btw, in your case of fret level.. if your tech is trustworthy, then listen to him.
Oh, and which strings @ which frets buzz? I'm assuming your neck is dead straight (use straight edge measure straight straight), nut height and bridge height are at optimum levels for low low action. Like 1mm from 1st fret to maybe... 1.5mm at 22nd fret.
But seriously,
Nut height (if locking nut, increase height only, any other nut, cannot touch)
Bridge adjustment
Neck relief
Is a MUST for a simple setup.
Then
Intonation (must have good tuner... duh. :wink: )
Pup height...
Usually thrown in...
The rest:
Nut adjustments (for regular nuts or lowering locking nut)
Anything that will alter frets
Anything that involves shaving metal parts
Anything that takes off wood
Would cost more and is not usually part of a "standard" setup.
Btw, in your case of fret level.. if your tech is trustworthy, then listen to him.
Oh, and which strings @ which frets buzz? I'm assuming your neck is dead straight (use straight edge measure straight straight), nut height and bridge height are at optimum levels for low low action. Like 1mm from 1st fret to maybe... 1.5mm at 22nd fret.
