Pedalboard Stuff!
- Thread starter j_m_s
- Start date
I've just gotten some GLs. Will post a review to you guys to see if it's actually worth it to make a switch from Klotz/Neutrik.
First impression. The cables, .155 are very good for tight corners and I've possibly save up to 3 pedal slots (I'm talking pretty big pedals like EH DMM and te likes of such) on my pedalboard.
I might eventually move to EA Melody from Lavaman should I have a chance though. I still believe in a soldered joint being superior.
If you have some woodworking skills, PM me I'm thinking of building a pedalboard though.
First impression. The cables, .155 are very good for tight corners and I've possibly save up to 3 pedal slots (I'm talking pretty big pedals like EH DMM and te likes of such) on my pedalboard.
I might eventually move to EA Melody from Lavaman should I have a chance though. I still believe in a soldered joint being superior.
If you have some woodworking skills, PM me I'm thinking of building a pedalboard though.
theblueark
New member
The way I read about how the system works it doesn't seem that possible to solder the joints.
MrMisse offering the chinacraft heads now I think. Might be a good alternative.
MrMisse offering the chinacraft heads now I think. Might be a good alternative.
mrmisse can get u the acse and patchcables with the flat heads with canare cables.
email him for enquiry.
shop@mrmisse.com
if i remember correctly
email him for enquiry.
shop@mrmisse.com
if i remember correctly
Mr Misse all the way!
Cables, boards, pedals, power supplies...he's the one I go to.
If nuetrik ends aren't for you, he can do flatheads as well to save up some space on your board to squeeze in more boxes. Klotz and Canare cables are what he uses, pretty high end stuff.
I don't think you can solder the GL joints but I'm of course not sure. From experience they are very nice to use, but live wise I don't really trust them without the solder. It may be just a mental impression or whatever. But if you've got the money do up your whole board. But for guitar to board purposes I still prefer soldered cables as there's still that element of movement.
For both cases just make sure you got the right lengths, the best is to bring down your board and discuss the custom lengths on the spot.
Cables, boards, pedals, power supplies...he's the one I go to.
If nuetrik ends aren't for you, he can do flatheads as well to save up some space on your board to squeeze in more boxes. Klotz and Canare cables are what he uses, pretty high end stuff.
I don't think you can solder the GL joints but I'm of course not sure. From experience they are very nice to use, but live wise I don't really trust them without the solder. It may be just a mental impression or whatever. But if you've got the money do up your whole board. But for guitar to board purposes I still prefer soldered cables as there's still that element of movement.
For both cases just make sure you got the right lengths, the best is to bring down your board and discuss the custom lengths on the spot.
Sorry to rehash an old thread, didn't want to start a new one and create clutter. Can the George L heads and cables really be soldered? I was examining one last night, would be a tough job soldering the centre lead to the plug, right?
Then I came across this:
What do y'all think? I'm not really particular about the cable, but I do want a small and compact plug. Among the soldered kinds, the flathead switchcrafts look the most compact, but are those still made by switchcraft? Metal heads might scratch pedals though.
Then I came across this:
What do y'all think? I'm not really particular about the cable, but I do want a small and compact plug. Among the soldered kinds, the flathead switchcrafts look the most compact, but are those still made by switchcraft? Metal heads might scratch pedals though.
Very nice .... good find !
Addchilli, j_m_s found it first in the angmor forum. But he never shared it with us. Tsk tsk... :mrgreen:
Heard about the SLT shop. But how do you tell if the metal flatheads are real switchcrafts or China knock-offs? Will there be any tell-tale markings etc?
gsonique
New member
the good bad and ugly of the switchcraft clone.
Good .. Japanese ... sturdy, slightly differ in design and hard to come by
.. Taiwanese clone of switchcraft, not so shinny , sturdy and has a white band separating the tip ...similar on the inside.
Bad ... taiwanese clone of the clone which at times appears at Sim Lim... shinny, light weight, has a plastic black band separating the tip. tricky to solder :???: as it melts the plastic...
Ugly ... China made....similar to the above ...only that the construction so poor the barrel turns ...don't bother ...you will hate your life.
IMO ...save money and get switchcraft !
Good .. Japanese ... sturdy, slightly differ in design and hard to come by
.. Taiwanese clone of switchcraft, not so shinny , sturdy and has a white band separating the tip ...similar on the inside.
Bad ... taiwanese clone of the clone which at times appears at Sim Lim... shinny, light weight, has a plastic black band separating the tip. tricky to solder :???: as it melts the plastic...
Ugly ... China made....similar to the above ...only that the construction so poor the barrel turns ...don't bother ...you will hate your life.
IMO ...save money and get switchcraft !
