does anyone know if SG sells Carnauba wax
- Thread starter PinkSpId3r
- Start date
xklusivly4u
Member
Binding on 8470 is a known issue. It will get dirty easily and expose the wood.
PinkSpId3r, let that happen and if you don’t like it, sell it to me
PinkSpId3r, let that happen and if you don’t like it, sell it to me
There is an air rifle dealer somewhere on beach road which services competition air rifles for schools. Gotta check yellowpages for exact location. It should be relatively easy to get tru-oil or any high gun stock wax through them. I do recall polishing my guns with some gun oil though I can't remember the exact name. My competition shootings days have long been over 
PinkSpId3r
New member
Thanks for all the recommendation guys i have decide to order the gunstock wax from the website given by Rossie.
edder: no prob. like what Dan said, remember to post pics of the building process
xklusivly4u: lol my 8470 is a keeper. i just need protection for the binding, doesnt care what color it turns into. Btw, where did you get the information about the binding from?
i have decide to order the gunstock wax from the website given by Rossie.edder: no prob. like what Dan said, remember to post pics of the building process
xklusivly4u: lol my 8470 is a keeper. i just need protection for the binding, doesnt care what color it turns into. Btw, where did you get the information about the binding from?
PinkSpId3r
New member
they sell that wax?
went to their webbie and it only shows a skate scooter -_-
went to their webbie and it only shows a skate scooter -_-
Ripper
New member
This is getting really interesting. Wax is good and worthy on J-Custom, or even an USRG. I dare anyone who dispute me 8) . Look below - Been there, done that:
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1995 MIJ JS6000SOL mahogany body with re-application of carnauba wax.
Not a great task at all! Take a small tin, throw in some wax cube, on that gas, boil and add a bit of turpentine to thin-out for your preference, apply when cool. You want that satin feel - just rub-down the dried wax lightly with 0000 grade steel wool.
Dude I guarantee you satisfaction and sense of achievement. :lol:
1995 MIJ JS6000SOL mahogany body with re-application of carnauba wax.
Not a great task at all! Take a small tin, throw in some wax cube, on that gas, boil and add a bit of turpentine to thin-out for your preference, apply when cool. You want that satin feel - just rub-down the dried wax lightly with 0000 grade steel wool.
Dude I guarantee you satisfaction and sense of achievement. :lol:
PinkSpId3r
New member
Im still in the midst of trying to find out is there really a need for waxing/oiling the binding.
actually i just need extra protection. not gonna refinish any other parts with the wax
i will ask around if theres really a need for me to apply anything.
actually i just need extra protection. not gonna refinish any other parts with the wax
i will ask around if theres really a need for me to apply anything.
Sure.
Have you tried Tru Oil before? Do you know the difference between Tru Oil and Wax?
I haven't and I don't.
I've only used Tru Oil before and finished an entire body from plain unfinished mahogany & maple.
I'm not saying the Wax is poor but for what pinkspider seeks to achieve, which one would be more appropriate?
Hmm come to think of it, both oil and wax work by penetrating into the pores of the wood. I've used both on a mahogany boomerang, wad happens is that the oil catalyses into a thin resin similar to lacquer while the wax simply remains as wax.
PinkSpId3r after rereading this thread, for your needs I don't think you should use either wax or oil. Maple itself is not very porous hence oil or wax will not work that effectively on it. Besides, if the neck is already finished with lacquer, the wax and oil will not be able to penetrate at all. They will just be sitting on top and once you start to play, your hands essentially rub them off again.
It is a fact that oil and wax finishes are less durable than lacquer, and if the lacquer starts to wear off, oil and wax finishes will be even more so provided they even penetrate into the wood in the first place.
So the best alternative is to just apply more layers of lacquer onto the binding. This will be tricky though.
I'm assuming your binding is finished with lacquer in the first place so take my words with a pinch of salt!
Oh btw guys, many american branded products that you read on the internet can actually be found in Singapore, at either HomeFix outlets or Handyman at Orchard, which I personally feel to be the best DIY shop locally. It carries literally EVERYTHING and the storeowners can be considered to be professional DIY-ers themselves. They always offer awesome advice.
My $0.02 =)
PinkSpId3r after rereading this thread, for your needs I don't think you should use either wax or oil. Maple itself is not very porous hence oil or wax will not work that effectively on it. Besides, if the neck is already finished with lacquer, the wax and oil will not be able to penetrate at all. They will just be sitting on top and once you start to play, your hands essentially rub them off again.
It is a fact that oil and wax finishes are less durable than lacquer, and if the lacquer starts to wear off, oil and wax finishes will be even more so provided they even penetrate into the wood in the first place.
So the best alternative is to just apply more layers of lacquer onto the binding. This will be tricky though.
I'm assuming your binding is finished with lacquer in the first place so take my words with a pinch of salt!
Oh btw guys, many american branded products that you read on the internet can actually be found in Singapore, at either HomeFix outlets or Handyman at Orchard, which I personally feel to be the best DIY shop locally. It carries literally EVERYTHING and the storeowners can be considered to be professional DIY-ers themselves. They always offer awesome advice.
My $0.02 =)
almondx, though maple is not very porous, you can still apply an oil finish on it.
My USA Custom Guitar has a quilted wild maple top. On the flip side, was a mahogany body. So I had less porous and very porous = one required less oil coats to fill the pores, the other required too many coats.
So I don't get it when you say, oil wouldn't work effectively on maple.
My USA Custom Guitar has a quilted wild maple top. On the flip side, was a mahogany body. So I had less porous and very porous = one required less oil coats to fill the pores, the other required too many coats.
So I don't get it when you say, oil wouldn't work effectively on maple.
shredcow, here's how I see it. The oil cures and becomes a thin film of resin. The non porous nature of maple does not allow the oil to soak into it properly. In other words the exposed surface area for the oil to bind to it is less than say, mahogany. This is why sometimes when you mask off several places of a maple neck with tape for servicing, if you're not careful when removing the tape after you're done you can actually pull off a part of the finish. This is especially prominent for oily woods as well.
Similarly the concept can be extended to why sanding has to be done in between coats of finish. It creates microscopic "pores" which allows the next layer of coat to bind well with the previous one.
Given that for PinkSpId3r's case the application of the finish is on the neck which is the most wear-prone area, oil is simply not a very effective barrier against wear.
For your case it is definitely fine though since the maple top is a large continuous piece of wood.
Similarly the concept can be extended to why sanding has to be done in between coats of finish. It creates microscopic "pores" which allows the next layer of coat to bind well with the previous one.
Given that for PinkSpId3r's case the application of the finish is on the neck which is the most wear-prone area, oil is simply not a very effective barrier against wear.
For your case it is definitely fine though since the maple top is a large continuous piece of wood.
No idea man... Maybe? But well, that's what Malcolm says. *shrugs*
Personally, on my guitar, on the maple top, in the floyd rose cavity? Its a small space... but nothing is flaking off, and I can't scrap anything off - i'll just leave nice lines (indents) in the finish/wood. Crap. :lol:
Also, have spilt tru-oil on my floor tiles before. Its still there. I'll have to scrap it off hard to get it off but i didn't want to damage my tiles (and I'm lazy) and there's still some of the oil there.... a thin coat... So I have toneful tiles.
Rossie: Me interested in the Wax... touching up my guitar!
Personally, on my guitar, on the maple top, in the floyd rose cavity? Its a small space... but nothing is flaking off, and I can't scrap anything off - i'll just leave nice lines (indents) in the finish/wood. Crap. :lol:
Also, have spilt tru-oil on my floor tiles before. Its still there. I'll have to scrap it off hard to get it off but i didn't want to damage my tiles (and I'm lazy) and there's still some of the oil there.... a thin coat... So I have toneful tiles.
Rossie: Me interested in the Wax... touching up my guitar!
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