tonewoods: fundamentals and overtones?

[penta-tonic]

here it is, continued from the photo gallery. methinks this is quite a nice topic for everyone to contribute, esp those who have dedicated their time to guitar playing and also understanding that elusive tone we chase and the part tonewoods play in the overall equation.

"yeah most pple perceive rosewood as warmer as the attack is not so obvious. notes have this very nice bloom to it and plenty of overtones. but i suppose it all depends on situation. for a true blue clean spanky strat tone something with a slow attack would definitely do better. maple has more fundamentals and less of that overtone chime.

body woods also play a big part for this fundamental and overtone thing. with the vintage woods such as ash and alder theres plenty of overtones and less of the fundamentals. with basswood theres almost no overtones to be had but the fundamentals are nice and thick providing lots of cut. somehow the more i play the less i gravitate towards the overtones as i find myself using higher gain settings. my ears dont seem to like all that distorting going on in the upper registers and now ive fallen back to basswood and an all maple neck combi to provide me a nice full fundamental. overtones just seem to get in the way of what im playing."

 

[penta-tonic]

(in response to keithC's question abt whether there are online vids or clips to demo this fundamental and overtone theory)

i dunno, doubt there are videos online about the comparison. id suggest starting with either acoustic guitars or playing your electrics unplugged. for woods with more overtones, theres this really nice harmonic complexity going on, almost as if there is some reverb happening. prob really pleasant to the ears. id recommend picking up a guitar made of basswood say and ibby and picking up a strat made of ash. i know it isnt a totally fair comparison due to the fact of 'not all things being equal' but it should give u a rough idea. basswood will have this almost dull and not too responsive tone as compared to the bright chimy and shimmery ash tones. however diff strokes for diff folks and diff woods for diff apps. with my acoustics i go with rosewood rather than mahog as i feel that for cleans, alot of overtones and complexity is needed. if i played more cleans, id buy an ash bodied strat. but when drive comes in, it distorts everything, and woods with overtones to me tend to sound really ice-picky and shrieky in the top end, like theres too much to overdrive. whereas to me stuff with very strong fundamentals get a really good 'gary moore' like tone, one nice bigass kick in the midrange balls to cut thru the band.

try this, get a strat say either alder with rosewood board or an ash with maple board and compare with with an ibanez of basswood body whether maple or rosewood board. with distortion somehow the ibby will sound more recording quality with a really nice focus to the tone while the strats with traditional woods will sound hairy and possibly even shrieky on the high frets. (note , try playing around with tone controls on pedal and highs on the amp and see which is the one with the true high end spike, most would realise after this that rosewood has more highs than maple) then switch over to clean and suddenly the ibby will sound uninspiring and droll while the ash and alder strats will start to shine with all the chime and quack and all that stuff. esp the ash, thats like the top of the heap for overtones.

 

[subversion]

wood type scrutiny is often discussed in ommission of the final tone consideration- it's what we hear coming out from the amp, which is more than tone wood involvements per se (much, much more actually...). also, no use discussing with those who can't hear the differences. no offence please, many of us cannot hear the differences, we only hear what we like & don't like.

 

[penta-tonic]

that is so true subby, but i know most singaporeans dont invest in amps so their tone contribution chain kinda ends at guitar or at most pedal boards. for me its also the final product, but i also like to find out what makes my guitar the way it is and thus have always tried my best to compare and hear everything about it.

think you could provide some of your opinions on this topic as seeing u own quite a large number of guitars in many styles?

 

[fgl]

who can't hear the differences. no offence please, many of us cannot hear the differences, we only hear what we like & don't like.

in a nutshell .... up ur points Mod

 

[van_halen]

there's way too many factors when it comes to tone. tone chasing can become really tiring. endless pickups, amps, effects, wood, bridge types, and their combinations/interactions..

 

[daryle]

in the end all i really want is a body that is strong enough to withstand light knocks, and can sustain long enough.

the wood's tone? sorry, but no. most people that go on and on about tone woods do not know a thing about their instruments and their gear.

way too many people fuss about their guitar's wood when they're playing through 15 watt solid state amps.

a guitarist's tone is:

40% amplifier and effects
50% skill
10% wood

 

[fgl]

HERE'S SOME GENERAL INFO TAKEN FROM THE WARMOTH WEBSITE
by the way - Warmoth makes damm good bodies & necks ...

Body Wood Options​

Alder (Alnus rubra):


Alder is used extensively for bodies because of its lighter weight (about four pounds for a Strat® body) and its full sound. Its closed grain makes this wood easy to finish. Alder's natural color is a light tan with little or no distinct grain lines. It looks good with a sunburst or a solid color finish. Because of its fine characteristics and lower price, Alder is our most popular wood and it grows all around us here in Washington State. The tone is reputed to be most balanced with equal doses of lows, mids and highs. Alder has been the mainstay for Fender bodies for many years and its characteristic tone has been a part of some of the most enduring pieces of modern day contemporary music.
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodiesX Used for necks X Used for fingerboards X

Ash (Fraxinus americana):

brazzavillensis):


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[fgl]

We have two very different types of Ash: Northern Hard Ash and Swamp Ash (Southern Soft Ash).

Northern Hard Ash is very hard, heavy and dense. A Strat® body will normally weigh 5 lbs. and up. Its density contributes to a bright tone and a long sustain which makes it very popular. Its color is creamy, but it also tends to have heartwood featuring pink to brown tints. The grain pores are open and it takes a lot of finish to fill them up.

Swamp Ash is a prized wood for many reasons. It is a fairly light weight wood which makes it easily distinguishable from Hard Ash. A Strat® body will normally weigh under 5 lbs. Many of the 50's Fenders were made of Swamp Ash. The grain is open and the color is creamy. This wood is a very nice choice for clear finishes. Swamp Ash is our second most popular wood. It is a very musical wood offering a very nice balance of brightness and warmth with a lot of "pop".
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodiesX Used for necks X Used for fingerboards X

Basswood (Tilia americana):


This is a lighter weight wood normally producing Strat® bodies under 4 lbs. The color is white, but often has nasty green mineral streaks in it. This is a closed-grain wood, but it can absorb a lot of finish. This is not a good wood for clear finishes since there is little figure. It is quite soft, and does not take abuse well. Sound-wise, Basswood has a nice, growley, warm tone with good mids. A favorite tone wood for shredders in the 80s since its defined sound cuts through a mix well.
Tone-O-Meter™

 

[fgl]

YESNO Used for laminate tops X Used for bodiesX Used for necks X Used for fingerboards X

Bubinga (Guibourtia demeusei):


A very strong stiff wood used primarily for bass necks and in laminations. Used by Rickenbacker for fretboards and Warwick for bodies. As a bass neck, it provides bright midrange and a thick well defined bottom. Bodies made form Bubinga will be very heavy but will sustain for days.
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodiesX * Occasionally available *Used for necksX Used for fingerboardsX * Occasionally available *

 

[fgl]

<H2>Koa (Acacia koa):</H2>
This very beautiful wood comes exclusively from Hawaii making supply very limited. Its weight varies somewhat from medium to heavy and is an excellent tone wood for bass guitar bodies. Koa has a warm sound similar to mahogany, but with a little more brightness. Like walnut, this wood may be oiled, but generally will look its best sprayed clear. Koa is sometimes available in flame figure.
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodiesX Used for necksX Used for fingerboards X

<H2>Figured Koa (Acacia koa):</H2>
Koa is exceptionally beautiful when it develops the flame figure. Available only in thin laminate tops and sometimes available in higher grades. ​

 

[fgl]

<H2>Maple
(Acer saccharum-Hard Maple):</H2>
We offer two types of Maple: Eastern Hard Maple (hard rock maple) and Western Soft Maple (big leaf maple).​

Hard Maple is a very hard, heavy and dense wood. This is the same wood that we use on our necks. The grain is closed and very easy to finish. The tone is very bright with long sustain and a lot of bite. This wood cannot be dyed. It looks great with clear or transparent color finishes.
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodiesX Used for necksX Used for fingerboardsX
<H2>Soft Maple
(Acer macrophyllum):</H2>
Western Maple grows all around us here in Washington state. It is usually much lighter weight than Hard Maple but it features the same white color. It has bright tone with good bite and attack, but is not brittle like the harder woods can be. Our flame (fiddle-back) and quilted bodies are Western Maple. This type of maple works great with dye finishes.
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodiesX Used for necks X Used for fingerboards X

<H2>Flame Maple (Acer macrophyllum-Pacific Maple):</H2>
Flame, Fiddle-Back or Tiger maple all generally refer to curls (or stripes) as illustrated here. Flame can be tight, wide, straight or crooked. While we can supply solid 1-piece or 2-piece flame bodies, this wood is most beautiful in the form of a bookmatched laminate top.
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodiesX Used for necks X Used for fingerboards X ​

 

[fgl]

<H2>Quilted Maple (Acer macrophyllum-Pacific Maple):</H2>
Quilted maple is a more rare form of figure occurring mostly in western maple. It is distinguished by its billowing cloud or even popcorn appearance. This figure can vary from large, wide billows to tight small blisters. As with flame, quilted maple is most often used as a bookmatched top, but is sometimes available as 1-piece or 2-piece solid bodies.
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodiesX Used for necks X Used for fingerboards X

<H2>Spalted Maple (Acer macrophyllum-Pacific Maple):</H2>
This wood is actually the product of a dead or decaying tree. The dark lines are created by fungal attack. This wood is soft and punky and is only used as a thin laminate bookmatched top on flat top bodies with binding. Spalt is difficult to finish as it soaks up a lot of finish. Don't even think about doing a "do-it-yourself" finish on this stuff. Each piece of Spalted maple is quite unique. It looks awesome with a tobacco burst finish. ​

 

[fgl]

<H2>Birdseye Maple (Acer saccharum-Hard Maple):</H2>
This figure is only found in the eastern hard maple trees. Birdseye does not usually run deep in the boards, so solid bodies are not available. As a bookmatched top it can be quite striking.
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodies X Used for necksX Used for fingerboardsX

<H2>Burl Maple (Acer macrophyllum-Pacific Maple):</H2>
This is a very busy looking wood usually with a lot of porosity and bark inclusions. We only use this wood for bookmatched tops. Epoxy is used to fill all voids. Burl looks fantastic finished in a natural clear gloss or as a tobacco burst! YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodies X Used for necks X Used for fingerboards X
. ​

 

[fgl]

<H2>Padouk, African (Pterocarpus soyauxii):</H2>
Bright vivid orange color which oxidizes to a warm brown with use. This waxy feeling wood has an open grain texture similar to rosewood and a tone similar to maple with great mids and attack. This is a heavy to medium weight wood that looks great with an oil finish or clear gloss!
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodiesX Used for necksX Used for fingerboards X

<H2>Poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera):</H2>
This is another standard body wood having been used by many companies over the years. Due to the grey/green color, this wood is used mostly when solid color finishes are to be applied. Its weight generally runs about one half pound more than Alder. Tonally, it is similar to Alder as well. Poplar is a closed grain wood that accepts finish well.
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodiesX Used for necks X Used for fingerboards X
<H2>​

 

[fgl]

Redwood (Sequoia sempervirens):</H2>

We have a nice stash of interesting figured redwood. It is available only as thin bookmatched laminate tops on flat top solid bodies. Oil finishes or a clear gloss really compliment the reddish color and figure! Redwood is not suitable for hollow bodies.​

<H2>Indian Rosewood (Dalbergia latifolia):</H2>
A gorgeous exotic wood with rich thick grain covering a range of colors and patterns. These bodies dominate the heavy wood category with solid Strat® bodies always weighing in at well over 6 lbs. Specifying construction as hollow or chambered build is always a good idea if you're weight conscious. Finishes can be a little difficult to apply with the oily nature of the wood. You can expect big warm tones from rosewood with smooth high end roll off. Indian Rosewood Tele® bodies were made popular in the 70s by George Harrison of the Beatles.
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodiesX Used for necksX Used for fingerboardsX

<H2>Brazilian Rosewood (Dalbergia nigra):</H2>
This is "Beautiful" wood with a wide range of colors, grain and patterns available in thin bookmatched laminate tops only. Brazilian Rosewood is always in short supply so it costs a bit more, but the look is worth it! ​

 

[fgl]

<H2>Sitka Spruce (Picea sitchensis):</H2>
Supplied quartersawn, this is the same wood used for acoustic guitar tops. Lightweight but stiff, the color is creamy white. Available for laminate tops only. ​

<H2>Walnut (Juglans nigra):</H2>
Luxurious coloring and grain patterns are the earmarks of Walnut. Whether using an oil finish or a deep clear gloss, the pleasing appeal of Walnut always delivers. This is an open grained wood. Walnut is in the heavy weight category but it's not quite as heavy as hard maple. It has a similar sound to hard maple but it tends not to be as bright.
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodiesX Used for necksX Used for fingerboards X ​

 

[fgl]

<H2>Figured Walnut (Juglans nigra):</H2>
The figure is predominantly flame. It is only available as a bookmatched laminate top. This is a very handsome wood. ​

<H2>Wenge (Millettia laurentii):</H2>
Wenge features black and chocolate brown stripes. It is usually quartersawn to yield straight grain - similar to open grained Zebrawood, but black. This body is in the heavy weight category so considering it as a hollow or chambered build is beneficial if you're weight conscious. Its weight does offer plenty of sustain though. Oil finishes are most popular on Wenge but you can also leave them unfinished as well. The tone is balanced with great mid presence and attack. This is a popular wood for boutique bass builders and its tonal reputation is impressive.
Tone-O-Meter™
YESNO Used for laminate topsX Used for bodiesX Used for necksX Used for fingerboardsX ​

 

[fgl]

<H2>Zebrawood (Microberlinia brazzavillensis):</H2>
You may see where Zebrawood gets its name. The distinctive look tells you it's none other than Zebrawood! This open grained wood is very heavy so it's primarily used as a bookmatched laminate top. When used as a body its tone is similar to maple​

 

[penta-tonic]

hahah seems i tried to contribute but pple here are far too jaded already. was hoping that pple would chime in with personal experiences rather than posting stuff we can find on a search engine.