Who here never uses the trem bar on your Strats?

Hi guys

So I decided to move up gauges from .9s to 10s. Regular light gauge. Before I restring, I use the GraphitALL lubricant n applied to the nut, string trees n at the bridge as well. After restringing, stretch the strings, tune up n did some whammy on the bar. I did notice that it didn't go flat or sharp at all, according to my ears. But according to my tuner, there was a slight flat or sharp, but still acceptable to me. It sounded like it was still in tune after whammying :)

So in a way, this process of changing string gauge, adding lubricant helps to improve tuning stability. Oh yah, I did notice that my bridge is now floating due to higher tension of the strings, perhaps? How do I get the bridge to be flushed n resting on the body?
 
Hi guys

So I decided to move up gauges from .9s to 10s. Regular light gauge. Before I restring, I use the GraphitALL lubricant n applied to the nut, string trees n at the bridge as well. After restringing, stretch the strings, tune up n did some whammy on the bar. I did notice that it didn't go flat or sharp at all, according to my ears. But according to my tuner, there was a slight flat or sharp, but still acceptable to me. It sounded like it was still in tune after whammying :)

So in a way, this process of changing string gauge, adding lubricant helps to improve tuning stability. Oh yah, I did notice that my bridge is now floating due to higher tension of the strings, perhaps? How do I get the bridge to be flushed n resting on the body?

you need to re-intonate when changing string gauge too. neck adjustment may also be necessary as the neck may warp from tension change.

in short, a quick re-setup bro.
 
most stock strats come with 9s but i think they tend to sound better with gauge 11 strings, i tried them once and it sounded terrific, there was more texture to it as compared to 10s or 9s. but too bad my hand couldn't take it so i downgraded to 10 again, which are fine too. i put 11s on my sheraton II and strangely enough it feels almost the same as my strat with 10s, maybe because of the wider neck shorter scale?
 
heavier gauges do sound better. they can even make crappy guitars sound good. not kidding.

hmm, i may shift from 10s to 12s if my band detunes one whole step down :D
 
This is my recommendation for strat, upgrade your tuners to a locking type. Don't wind up to many coils around the the tuners, with locking tuners you install it without winding any coils, pull the string straight and lock.

On the nut side, use a TUSQ nut or graptech nut, the best is to use Fender LSR Roller nut. With Fender LSR nut you can use without the string trees and if you have to use it upgrade your string trees to a roller type and apply lube on the trees as well.
If you use the staggered type of locking tuners than you can scrap the string trees alltogether.

Trem side, most trem works well, the best for Strat type guitars is to use Gotoh/Wilkinson model, it's the best no locking trem in the market for Strat.
Like all the guys mention lube up, for 2 pivot point, remove the trem and apply a small ball of grease on both studs, make sure your trem knife edge is not blunt, it must be like a butter knife edge and apply the lube on the knife edge too.
For a 6 hole trem, try to sip in the grease with a thin card or a pin on all six but pay more attention more on the 2 end stud screws.

The cheapest guitar grease you can use is a Chapstick, it's for moisturising the lips skin but works superb on a guitar trem.
 
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