pls give a second of ur time (guitar)
- Thread starter satch
- Start date
Firstly, unless your guitar is locking bridge type (floyd rose), you must be nuts to put the ball end on the tuner end.
Secondly, I don't see the problem with the ball end at the tuner, provided you cutoff the ball itself. You must also trim off before those wire wound start (the bare part of the low fatter strings, E A D).
Thirdly, if you use the ball as a stop (start exact where the ball is, and leave it there). Its quite dumb too as the string can wrap around the ball itself and you get inconsistent tension as you tune.
Forthly, it's up to your guitar string change skill, if you are good, I don't think it matters. If not, learn from someone who is good. Remember, the ideal when in tune is for the tuner to have 2-4turns on it.
Neck warp is subjective, if the neck is constructed well, should be no problem. More likely you will encounter your hardware (metal) & electronics parts will suffer if you leave the guitar open on a stand for prolong periods like 6 months without touching it.
If it's poorly built and suppose to warp after a while (some really do), you can have 0 gravity suspension and it will still warp.
Secondly, I don't see the problem with the ball end at the tuner, provided you cutoff the ball itself. You must also trim off before those wire wound start (the bare part of the low fatter strings, E A D).
Thirdly, if you use the ball as a stop (start exact where the ball is, and leave it there). Its quite dumb too as the string can wrap around the ball itself and you get inconsistent tension as you tune.
Forthly, it's up to your guitar string change skill, if you are good, I don't think it matters. If not, learn from someone who is good. Remember, the ideal when in tune is for the tuner to have 2-4turns on it.
Neck warp is subjective, if the neck is constructed well, should be no problem. More likely you will encounter your hardware (metal) & electronics parts will suffer if you leave the guitar open on a stand for prolong periods like 6 months without touching it.
If it's poorly built and suppose to warp after a while (some really do), you can have 0 gravity suspension and it will still warp.
yea, i am using an rg 550. haha, i was wondering about the ball thing cos i remember reading an atricle saying that strings are graduated thus, the ball ends have more pull and they are thinker towards that end. thus would cause warp in the long run?
as for string changing, what do u mean by know hw to chage? hw will they affect warp?
and also, the stand question, i was wondering if putting the strings facing out would cause neck bow and the support pushes the neck out while the strings are pulling it. thus causing neck bow. i dunno hw true that is but i have ever since put guitars with the strings facing in to compensate the string pull with the push from the neck support of the stand.
wonder whats ur take on it mikemann.
as for string changing, what do u mean by know hw to chage? hw will they affect warp?
and also, the stand question, i was wondering if putting the strings facing out would cause neck bow and the support pushes the neck out while the strings are pulling it. thus causing neck bow. i dunno hw true that is but i have ever since put guitars with the strings facing in to compensate the string pull with the push from the neck support of the stand.
wonder whats ur take on it mikemann.
OK, even if the strings are ticker at bottom (some custom strings are so).
The tension will be uniform from NUT to BRIDGE, irregardless of string changed to ball end at top.
Because there is no other pivot or lock point in-between to affect it.
More affect the tone than any other thing.
VERY IMPORTANT, stick to the reccomended GAUGE for your particular guitar. Changing will affect the action as the neck is under less or more tension. UNNATURAL WARP can occur when its under a tension that is out of it torelance range for prolong period, or TUNING MISTAKE. By which I mean that there are idiots who tune the low E as the high E and so forth. That's it, once you go over the limit, permanent damage sets in.
Again the stand issue, my say is that if the guitar is well built, its OK. If you face inwards, does it not look funny??
If you put the guitar on a stand and the guitar warps due to that, I'll say WHAT A LOUSY GUITAR.
Also your strings will be pushed-in at the point of contact and if its over a fret, the string will deform with respect to the fret crown. So you could often have to change strings if it deform and buzz when play.
If you really care for your guitar, keep it in a hardcase. Or keep it in a softcase when on the stand. At least you keep the sun and dust from it.
It just sound logically so to me, so the myth should be just myth that the overly careful and zealous guitar keeper came up with.
The tension will be uniform from NUT to BRIDGE, irregardless of string changed to ball end at top.
Because there is no other pivot or lock point in-between to affect it.
More affect the tone than any other thing.
VERY IMPORTANT, stick to the reccomended GAUGE for your particular guitar. Changing will affect the action as the neck is under less or more tension. UNNATURAL WARP can occur when its under a tension that is out of it torelance range for prolong period, or TUNING MISTAKE. By which I mean that there are idiots who tune the low E as the high E and so forth. That's it, once you go over the limit, permanent damage sets in.
Again the stand issue, my say is that if the guitar is well built, its OK. If you face inwards, does it not look funny??
If you put the guitar on a stand and the guitar warps due to that, I'll say WHAT A LOUSY GUITAR.
Also your strings will be pushed-in at the point of contact and if its over a fret, the string will deform with respect to the fret crown. So you could often have to change strings if it deform and buzz when play.
If you really care for your guitar, keep it in a hardcase. Or keep it in a softcase when on the stand. At least you keep the sun and dust from it.
It just sound logically so to me, so the myth should be just myth that the overly careful and zealous guitar keeper came up with.
Normal electric guitar should use 0.009 or guage 9 (first string).
Fat necks, like les paul standard prefer 0.010 or guage 10
Guitars with Humbuckers also tend to favour guage 10 strings too.
Guage 8 is light weight, but there are people who use it too.
guage 11 is a bit heavy weight already, but these are the 4 guages that the common ones.
Interchanging between them will affect the action or bow of the neck, due to tension difference. But results varies, strong necks wont feel any different, but on weak necks, you can use it to shoot arrow if its affected too much.
So, ask someone experience on your git's normal string guage (eg. strat 9, LP 10). I don't recall that when you buy the guitar, you will get much clue on its stock string type.
Fat necks, like les paul standard prefer 0.010 or guage 10
Guitars with Humbuckers also tend to favour guage 10 strings too.
Guage 8 is light weight, but there are people who use it too.
guage 11 is a bit heavy weight already, but these are the 4 guages that the common ones.
Interchanging between them will affect the action or bow of the neck, due to tension difference. But results varies, strong necks wont feel any different, but on weak necks, you can use it to shoot arrow if its affected too much.
So, ask someone experience on your git's normal string guage (eg. strat 9, LP 10). I don't recall that when you buy the guitar, you will get much clue on its stock string type.
IMO, forget about the minimum string wraps nonsense.
the shorter the string the better.
the perfect remedy...locking tuners. I put them on all my guitars.
If you don't have locking tuners, there is a method to minimize string length. I'd have to show you rather than try to explain it.
A string is a string. If your guitar is worth a crap, it shouldn't matter how you string it. as long you don't do something stupid like over-tightening to the extreme.
~Dr.Axe~
the shorter the string the better.
the perfect remedy...locking tuners. I put them on all my guitars.
If you don't have locking tuners, there is a method to minimize string length. I'd have to show you rather than try to explain it.
A string is a string. If your guitar is worth a crap, it shouldn't matter how you string it. as long you don't do something stupid like over-tightening to the extreme.
~Dr.Axe~
thor666
New member
satch said:
i tried doing that before to save time stringing... slot and then, as what i like to do, give the string many windings at the end to make it "curl" on the peg and save the hassle of cutting it. it's not exactly very time-saving though.
and ya, thanks for the lace sensors.
haven't got a pickguard+electronics to try them thou. :?Similar threads
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