GrayAkira
New member
It's the most scariest thing to do on the bass, for me at least. Here's the LONG story.
I bought my new bass and the first time I changed the strings, the neck was back-bowed, ard the 2-3fret, after I've put on the strings. I tried to adjust the truss rod myself, but I dare not cause I know what will happened if I do it wrongly (neck breaking). So I send to a shop, and they charge me $32 (inclusive of the new strings).
So it's that time of again to change my strings and I scared my neck back-bowed again. I wanted to send to a tech but I scared the neck won't back-bowed like what it did last time, know what I'm saying? Well, I just want to know your opinion about this website and wheather the steps are correct. Or should I just sent to a tech anyway.
http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_setup/adjusting_neck_relief.html
Edit: I'm using .50 gauge strings. Tuned down 2 steps, that is CFA#D#. I think that's what causes back-bowed, but not sure.
I bought my new bass and the first time I changed the strings, the neck was back-bowed, ard the 2-3fret, after I've put on the strings. I tried to adjust the truss rod myself, but I dare not cause I know what will happened if I do it wrongly (neck breaking). So I send to a shop, and they charge me $32 (inclusive of the new strings).
So it's that time of again to change my strings and I scared my neck back-bowed again. I wanted to send to a tech but I scared the neck won't back-bowed like what it did last time, know what I'm saying? Well, I just want to know your opinion about this website and wheather the steps are correct. Or should I just sent to a tech anyway.
http://www.tunemybass.com/bass_setup/adjusting_neck_relief.html
Edit: I'm using .50 gauge strings. Tuned down 2 steps, that is CFA#D#. I think that's what causes back-bowed, but not sure.