Acoustic Treatment For Your Room

marcdadrummer

New member
I know that this topic has been discussed but i can't seem to find it anywhere and my search using the search function is practically useless...

Well i have some questions for those who have done some acoustic treatment to their room where you guys place your drums.

My drums are placed on the living room's balcony right in front of the dining table and sun could seep in due to the curtains. My good friend from the 2nd floor even called me when i was playing that he could hear me.

Any suggestions??? if someone could refer me to the older topics that'll be great too.
 
"box in a box"

nigel spent almost like $4k? worth of money, but it still boils down to the neighbours u have
 
what is the thing you are trying to achieve?

if you want to contain the drum sound within your house, put the drumset inside a room. seal up the windows and doors.

it is the same as when you sit inside a car and have the windows down. it is very noisy right? once you wind up the windows, you can hardly heard the noise outside.

more threads in the Sound - How To section.
 
do u know anyone in the SAF bands? if u do, they made sound shields with all music stands and large pieces of acrylic sheets. works really really good.

the music stand they used were very old and very sturdy. it can be done
 
well my neighbours doesn't have any problems of me playing on the living room but it just doesn't feel right disturbing them...

Im thinking of doing something like gambatak did...

building a wooden platform, putting up acoustic foams on the walls and the windows putting up thick drapes or something like that...

bro mark, would it be expensive to make those sound shields with the acrylic sheets???
 
Here's something else I read about acoustic treatment.

Effective & Ineffective Absorbers

Now you've probably read about Technical Editor Hugh Robjohns and I sticking acoustic foam onto studio walls, but before you rush off and do this it is important to understand the limitations of such materials. While a thick black cloth placed over a mirror will absorb all the visible light of its reflection, a piece of acoustic foam will only be acoustically 'black' at high frequencies, becoming increasingly transparent at lower frequencies. In very general terms, a piece of four-inch-thick foam stuck directly onto the wall is only really effective for frequencies above about 200-300Hz, whereas a piece of two-inch foam is only effective above about 400-600Hz. In other words, if you halve the thickness of the foam, the frequency above which it is effective moves up by an octave.

Once you appreciate this, you can see immediately why attempts to deaden walls with carpet don't work too well — carpet is relatively thin and so only soaks up very high frequencies. This leaves the low and mid-range frequencies unaffected, giving a dull and boxy result. You can probably now also understand why acoustic foam would need to be several feet thick to be effective at bass frequencies, which is why foam is rarely the most practical solution for bass absorption.

Although foam is quite convenient, it's not the only option. You can also use one or more layers of high-density Rockwool insulation slab, as long as you cover it with fabric to keep those nasty irritating fibres out of the air. Rockwool is just as effective as foam, if not more so, but it does require more in the way of DIY skills.

One very useful tip is that spacing foam or Rockwool absorbers away from your wall by a few inches makes them more effective at low frequencies. For example, spacing four-inch-thick foam four inches from the wall is almost as effective as using double the thickness of foam in the first place! It can help in this instance to mount the foam or Rockwool onto a board with large holes or slots cut out of it to let the sound through — radiator fret panel is good for this, but not pegboard. This board can then be hung in the right place. Another quicker solution is to simply glue high-density foam cubes to the back of an acoustic-foam panel to act as spacers. I've found that spray carpet adhesive is as good as anything for fixing foam.

Another way to deal with high-frequency reflections is to break them up so that they become less disruptive. This is called 'diffusion', and requires a very uneven surface with protrusions and wells several inches in depth. Although commercial diffuser designs are available with precisely calculated profiles, putting shelves at the back of your room and part filling them with books, manuals, CDs and bits of unused gear also works quite effectively!

http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/feb06/articles/studiosos.htm

This one has a couple of useful links too.

From: http://forum.studiotips.com/viewtopic.php?p=739

Practical Studio Soundproofing & Acoustic Treatment

Practical Studio Soundproofing: Part 1
Waking up the neighbours with the latest turbo folk masterpiece is a major concern for many project studio owners. Paul White explains that monitoring with headphones and moving house are not the only solutions...
http://www.sospubs.co.uk/sos/feb98/articles/soundproofing.html

Practical Studio Soundproofing: Part 2
Doors & Windows. No matter how thick and heavy the walls of a studio, it will still leak sound if the doors and windows are not up to scratch. Paul White explains how you can uprate them without breaking the bank.
http://www.sospubs.co.uk/sos/mar98/articles/soundproofing.html

Practical Studio Soundproofing: Part 3
Part 3: walls, floors and ceilings. If you're serious about cutting noise from your studio, you'll have to explore the mysteries of studding and neoprene rubber. Paul White explains that it's not quite as exciting as it sounds...
http://www.sospubs.co.uk/sos/apr98/articles/soundproofing.html

Practical Studio Soundproofing: Part 4
If you have the space, the time and the money, the best sound isolation can be achieved by building a room within a room. Paul White explains what's involved.
http://www.sospubs.co.uk/sos/may98/articles/Soundproofing.html

Practical Acoustic Treatment: Part 1
PART 1: PAUL WHITE examines the basic principles of acoustic treatment in order to help you improve your recording and monitoring environment.
http://www.sospubs.co.uk/sos/jul98/articles/acoustics1.html

Practical Acoustic Treatment: Part 2
PART 2: In his second article on acoustic treatment, PAUL WHITE tackles the absorbing subject of acoustic traps.
http://www.sospubs.co.uk/sos/aug98/articles/praticalacoustic.html

Practical Acoustic Treatment: Part 3
PART 3: PAUL WHITE looks at how you can calculate how much studio acoustic treatment you really need.
http://www.sospubs.co.uk/sos/sep98/articles/acoustic_3.html

Practical Acoustic Treatment: Part 4
PART 4: Continuing his quest for the perfect listening environment, PAUL WHITE looks at ways to treat a control room without having to bring in the builders.
http://www.sospubs.co.uk/sos/oct98/articles/acoustics.html

Practical Acoustic Treatment: Part 5
Part 5 (last part): Paul White sums up the key stages of designing a project studio and touches on the subject of air conditioning.
http://www.sospubs.co.uk/sos/nov98/articles/acoustic5.htm
 
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