Glossy layer of the neck?
- Thread starter gackt1500
- Start date
HarrisonYeo
New member
sand it off.
MadWerewolfBoy
New member
Is your neck maple? Careful not to sand off to much of the coating because maple needs to be sealed with a coating for it to be stable. Just use a extra extra fine sand paper and sand the smooth lacquer to a slightly matt surface, be sure not to totally remove it.
obzervr
New member
Step one:
Get an 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper. Cut it to a strip of about 2inches wide. get a towel, roll it up and roll the sand paper over the towel. Sand down along the direction of the grain withour too much pressure.
Step two:
Get an 2000 grit sandpaper, soak in water for an hour. Cut it up like above. Roll it up like above, and sand along the direction of the grain.
Do it well and you'll get a satin like finish.
Alternatively: (this is what I do to a couple of my super glossy necks)
Get the gel type paint stripper, mix with thinner 60:40. Stir well. Brush the mixture over the glossy neck. (if you plan to keep the Decal or any other parts glossy, tape it up using painters' masking tape). Let the mixture work itself on the coating. You'll see bubbles after about 15 min. Get a clean scraper, scrape the neck clean from the gloss.
After clearing all the flakes. Get a 200 grit sandpaper, run it along the neck to remove any left over coating (stell wool also can) don't put too much pressure or you'll scratch the wood excessively. Then gradually move to 400, 800, 1500, 2000 and 3M ultrafine (available at selected hardwarestore). The wood will be bare and smooth after all that sanding.
Next Step: Recoating. I use treated tung oil to coat (can get them at Paint stores). Use lint free cloth. Rub the oil in circular motion (like polishing your army boots). Let it dry for about 3 hours. Go for second coat. Just glaze the neck (no need for circular motion). Let it dry overnight. Btw, the oil will seep into the wood and when dry, it will harden into a hard plastic film like lacquer.
Next day, use 2000 grit sandpaper to sand away uneven residue. Start the whole process again. Build up about 5 coats.
The alternative method is a good way to refinish your neck esp if you notice a tinge of flame or birdseye along the neck. It usually means that the maple used for the neck has light flame rings or birdseye but the grain was not raised to bring the beauty out. For a few of my project necks, the birdseye or flames become more obvious after refinishing. Don't worry, Tung oil is an approved finish to preserve and maintain wood properties. You can recoat it once in a while to enhance the finish.
As a sample, this is what I mean:
This was from a Timbre 102 which doesn't fit the pocket of any strat body I have. So I shave off the heel. stripped the whole neck and refinish.
This is the neck of a Fender Deluxe Power Stratocaster 60th Anniversary issue. I had to repair this neck and noticed bits of flame on it. I stripped the neck minus headstock and heel and refinish it. To add a coat of antique yellow tint and a few more coats of tung oil to go.
The lower one was from a strat copy that had the wrong fender decal that I bought for $150. I noticed birds eye spot so decided to give it a refinishing run. And tru enough the neck is scattered with small birds eye. (not easily seen from pic cos using phone) but moving the neck from side to side, you'll get to see a 3D like effect.
Cheers!
Get an 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper. Cut it to a strip of about 2inches wide. get a towel, roll it up and roll the sand paper over the towel. Sand down along the direction of the grain withour too much pressure.
Step two:
Get an 2000 grit sandpaper, soak in water for an hour. Cut it up like above. Roll it up like above, and sand along the direction of the grain.
Do it well and you'll get a satin like finish.
Alternatively: (this is what I do to a couple of my super glossy necks)
Get the gel type paint stripper, mix with thinner 60:40. Stir well. Brush the mixture over the glossy neck. (if you plan to keep the Decal or any other parts glossy, tape it up using painters' masking tape). Let the mixture work itself on the coating. You'll see bubbles after about 15 min. Get a clean scraper, scrape the neck clean from the gloss.
After clearing all the flakes. Get a 200 grit sandpaper, run it along the neck to remove any left over coating (stell wool also can) don't put too much pressure or you'll scratch the wood excessively. Then gradually move to 400, 800, 1500, 2000 and 3M ultrafine (available at selected hardwarestore). The wood will be bare and smooth after all that sanding.
Next Step: Recoating. I use treated tung oil to coat (can get them at Paint stores). Use lint free cloth. Rub the oil in circular motion (like polishing your army boots). Let it dry for about 3 hours. Go for second coat. Just glaze the neck (no need for circular motion). Let it dry overnight. Btw, the oil will seep into the wood and when dry, it will harden into a hard plastic film like lacquer.
Next day, use 2000 grit sandpaper to sand away uneven residue. Start the whole process again. Build up about 5 coats.
The alternative method is a good way to refinish your neck esp if you notice a tinge of flame or birdseye along the neck. It usually means that the maple used for the neck has light flame rings or birdseye but the grain was not raised to bring the beauty out. For a few of my project necks, the birdseye or flames become more obvious after refinishing. Don't worry, Tung oil is an approved finish to preserve and maintain wood properties. You can recoat it once in a while to enhance the finish.
As a sample, this is what I mean:
This was from a Timbre 102 which doesn't fit the pocket of any strat body I have. So I shave off the heel. stripped the whole neck and refinish.
This is the neck of a Fender Deluxe Power Stratocaster 60th Anniversary issue. I had to repair this neck and noticed bits of flame on it. I stripped the neck minus headstock and heel and refinish it. To add a coat of antique yellow tint and a few more coats of tung oil to go.
The lower one was from a strat copy that had the wrong fender decal that I bought for $150. I noticed birds eye spot so decided to give it a refinishing run. And tru enough the neck is scattered with small birds eye. (not easily seen from pic cos using phone) but moving the neck from side to side, you'll get to see a 3D like effect.
Cheers!
Last edited:
gackt1500
New member
Yesh its a maple neck with rosewood fretboard =)
gackt1500
New member
Step one:
Get an 800 or 1000 grit sandpaper. Cut it to a strip of about 2inches wide. get a towel, roll it up and roll the sand paper over the towel. Sand down along the direction of the grain withour too much pressure.
Step two:
Get an 2000 grit sandpaper, soak in water for an hour. Cut it up like above. Roll it up like above, and sand along the direction of the grain.
Do it well and you'll get a satin like finish.
Alternatively: (this is what I do to a couple of my super glossy necks)
Get the gel type paint stripper, mix with thinner 60:40. Stir well. Brush the mixture over the glossy neck. (if you plan to keep the Decal or any other parts glossy, tape it up using painters' masking tape). Let the mixture work itself on the coating. You'll see bubbles after about 15 min. Get a clean scraper, scrape the neck clean from the gloss.
After clearing all the flakes. Get a 200 grit sandpaper, run it along the neck to remove any left over coating (stell wool also can) don't put too much pressure or you'll scratch the wood excessively. Then gradually move to 400, 800, 1500, 2000 and 3M ultrafine (available at selected hardwarestore). The wood will be bare and smooth after all that sanding.
Next Step: Recoating. I use treated tung oil to coat (can get them at Paint stores). Use lint free cloth. Rub the oil in circular motion (like polishing your army boots). Let it dry for about 3 hours. Go for second coat. Just glaze the neck (no need for circular motion). Let it dry overnight. Btw, the oil will seep into the wood and when dry, it will harden into a hard plastic film like lacquer.
Next day, use 2000 grit sandpaper to sand away uneven residue. Start the whole process again. Build up about 5 coats.
The alternative method is a good way to refinish your neck esp if you notice a tinge of flame or birdseye along the neck. It usually means that the maple used for the neck has light flame rings or birdseye but the grain was not raised to bring the beauty out. For a few of my project necks, the birdseye or flames become more obvious after refinishing. Don't worry, Tung oil is an approved finish to preserve and maintain wood properties. You can recoat it once in a while to enhance the finish.
As a sample, this is what I mean:
This was from a Timbre 102 which doesn't fit the pocket of any strat body I have. So I shave off the heel. stripped the whole neck and refinish.
This is the neck of a Fender Deluxe Power Stratocaster 60th Anniversary issue. I had to repair this neck and noticed bits of flame on it. I stripped the neck minus headstock and heel and refinish it. To add a coat of antique yellow tint and a few more coats of tung oil to go.
The lower one was from a strat copy that had the wrong fender decal that I bought for $150. I noticed birds eye spot so decided to give it a refinishing run. And tru enough the neck is scattered with small birds eye. (not easily seen from pic cos using phone) but moving the neck from side to side, you'll get to see a 3D like effect.
Cheers!
Woow tats required alot of work man
obzervr
New member
This one will not take too much energy. Should be done in one hour or less.
