Restoring Drums

GenX25

New member
Hi everyone,

I got a burning question to ask. My drum kit is quite badly rusted up. How do I restore the kit to it's former glory? I've heard of solutions such as using autosol or WD40 or using sand paper to sand away the rust. Are this ideas feasible? Any ideas guys? Thanks a lot
 
if your patient, buy brasso and rub away the rust....

if u want it done fast, u could buy/order all the metallic parts overseas or get them at ranking but some might not fit so better check it out first....

or just sell away ur current kit and buy a new one :D
 
oh.. so brasso works huh?
Cannot buy new one la.. Got lots of sentimental value. Somemore, it's the snare drum. Managed to get a Tama Swingstar Snare. So for a person who has no money. Of course I value it.
 
what set are u using??? tama swingstars are from the entry level range.. i suggest you get a better snare...

I myself am a student, get my money from hari raya and saving and managed to get a 2nd hand set but invests quite a hefty sum on my pies and snare...

also invest on a good teacher or get urself involved in good books and instructional video lessons if u could find them...

good luck rubbin away the rusts :D
 
Bro Gen, if you're poor like me, I have a few suggestions.

For snare drum, tune it to something you like. If you are using the stock skin, maybe you can buy new skins for it. It you can't afford a new snare right now, make do with what you have. If you tune it right, it can sound nice too! :D
Anyway, the sound is personal preference.

Even though Tama Swingstar is an entry level drumset, it can produce decent sound. So it's no harm using it until you have money.

Books and instructional videos might be costly for you now. But they are really helpful. For now, if your budget is tight, you can always pick up new things from the internet. There are several great resources available online. One of them is youtube.

You can also try this two websites:

http://www.freedrumlessons.com
http://www.vicfirth.com

Changing all the hoops and lugs can cost quite some money. So put in more effort in rubbing! :D
 
Hahaha, my uncle gave me a lazer drumset. I managed to salvage a Tama Swingstar Snare from my old secondary school. I just wanna restore it cos it's my so called most valuable piece of hardware. I would love to get more expensive gear but I use it for home practice only, besides I pad the whole thing so i find it quite pointless to upgrade to a better snare.
 
Besides, I think it sounds decent. I changed the heads to evan's power centre reverse dot for the batter head and for the resonance head, i got the evans snare side 300 hazy. I managed to get a pretty good sound out of it. =D
 
with the proper heads and proper tuning any kit can sound good, love your kit man ! haha good luck playing. :D i think its a good chance for you to really feel the kit and practice with it. Do really tweak the kit to its peak and understand the kit, it will help when u proceed to the kits with better hardwares ! haha
This is just how i feel cause i tried to really understand a carlos kit back then, it really helped me ! just my opinion, hope you dont mind :D
 
Yea man, I intend to do that. The last time I tuned my heads. It took me half a day to get the sounds I wanted. Anyway, thanks for all your advices. It helps a lot and now I know what to buy to get rid of the rust and to make my kit look shiny and *new* again. =D
 
and for marcdadrummer, give the guy a break. everyone's circumstances are differnt, it's this small thing called EQ u may want to look into
 
You wanna be careful with the abrasives on the rust. Work on a small area first to determine if the rust has already eaten through the layer of chrome. If it has, all the rubbing you do will only serve to remove the chrome, and polish the steel below, which will become susceptible to rust without a chrome layer.

Surface rust can still be solved by polishing.

Checkout this article. Talking about motorcyles, but applies to drum hardware too.

Chrome
Chrome is by far the most common bright work on motorcycles. Chromium, the metal used to chrome plate steel and other metals, resists tarnishing and holds a shine better than all other metals, including platinum. Chrome has a single enemy: rust. Over time, chrome oxidizes and develops rust spots. The higher quality the chrome plating, the more it will resist rusting, but eventually, it will happen. If you allow the chrome to go too long without removing the rust, the chrome will become permanently pitted.

Heavy rust on chromed parts requires a decision: polish or re-chrome. Re-plating small parts is pretty easy. Simply remove the part and hand it to your local plating company. A couple weeks later you’ll have your part back looking like new. However, what if it’s a large part, like a bumper or a window frame? Re-plating a medium or large part is expensive. Even a modest size part, such as an engine case or air cleaner cover, can cost $100 or more. If you think there’s even a remote chance the rusted chrome part is salvageable, you should try to save it.

Removing rust and polishing chrome can usually restore chrome to a reasonable looking condition. If the rust simply coats, and is not deeply embedded, the chrome should come back to life. As long as the chrome is not flaking off, you have a chance of saving it.

Most pro detailers use fine grades of steel wool to remove rust from chrome. It’s quick and easy. Please use caution if you choose this route, as even fine (000) or super fine (0000) steel wool leaves minor scratches that you will need to polish with a metal or chrome polish to remove. Another product that works well is the household steel wool soap pad. The soap acts as both a cleaner and a lubricant to prevent scratching (use plenty of water). Warning: keep steel wool away from painted surfaces.

If you have rust in cracks and crevices you can’t reach, use a toothbrush and household cleanser. Wet the toothbrush, dip it in the cleanser, and start scrubbing. The abrasives in the cleanser remove rust very fast. Rinse well with plenty of fresh water.

The final step with chrome is to polish it with a good chrome or metal polish. Use a polish specifically made for chrome. With most metal polishes, a little goes a long way, so use just a little dab at a time. Also, the best metal polishing cloth is soft cotton, such as tee shirt material. Cotton fleece, such as an old sweatshirt works great, too.

http://www.hawg-wash.com/polishingmetal.html
 
It really depends on how the rust looks......some can be polished till like new...some noway if the rust eats inside..

Chroming is very expensive....It is also not how thick you chrome it...it's the Qua;ity of Chroming.....Good Chroming can last for 10 20 even 30 years....poor chroming - nothing one can do to stop it when time comes eg 5 years or so..........

My Yamaha 27 years look at the chrome (all original parts) no problem like Mint...my Gretsch Catalina Club Kit....1 year 8 months now - one look can tell - both kits are taken care in the same manner.....it's Quality Of The Chrome.

Yours is a Laser so I advice not to re-Chrpme can cost more than the Kit itself. Chroming is based on Volume - the more the cheaper that's why manufacturer can get cost efficiency here - so the whole kit is cheaper.

Where do u stay - see if I can help you rejuvenate the kit lah....oneday.
 
Wah Eric so nice ah! My kit also rusting like no one's business. Come help me too! No la. I'm kidding. I can't be bothered about it rusting.
 
Wah.. so much good advice. I dunno how to devour everything. Let me see, the damage on the shell ranges from quite bad to not too bad. I have lots of tarnish and some parts of the shell has been more or else eaten away by rust. Hard to explain, a bit like freckles like that. Furthermore, I think I scratched the surface a bit by sanding too hard. My hoops also in similar condition. The lugs, tension rods, screws and that snare wire tensioner (i dunno what is it called) is in quite bad condition. Rusted and tarnished like dunno what like that. The rest of the kit also more or less like that. I like in the west area, Bukit Batok. Cheers! Thanks for all the valuable advice. Btw, I decided to buy Autosol cos it is written on the back that it "removes rust" instead of Brasso which marc recommended because the bottle never say anything about removing rust. Haha, i quite gong la. I just took the cheapest product that said it could remove "rust". =D
 
First you take out all the scews, then take out the both Rims (waiting to be polished)

Now Check your shell - make sure the Bearing Edge is in perfect condition here (if not no point also to do it up) - the drum won't sound good (Very Important....If everything is oK - for wooden shell.

Polish the Shell with Drum Polish or Guitarist polish - My experience tells me - It takes about 6 months of a (Once a week polish) to bring it back to almost nearly it's original condition & colour...It's true it takes time here. Do not take out the Toms-Bracket (if it's a Tom Shell) just polish the chrome bracket as attached to the toms...Because if the Shell is quite old (as you said) taking out the bracket can spoil the shell if you are not careful here (best not to).

Question: Why is it that your shell as mentioned (is more or less EATEN BY RUST)..you mean it's a snare izzit?...Guess it is.

Do not use Sand-Paper -you will scratch the shell. Id you see those small freckle like rust - no problem - go to a Hardware shop buy the Metal Brass Brush - have a few sizes...you need more than one brush here (it saves time and actually clean even better when you brush it)...even stubborn rust can comes out and it can work on small areas you can't reach on the Lugs, Rims screws threads and shell. Use the Brush only to takle our stubborn rust.....then after that use cloth polish as normal.

DO NOT USE Autosol - USE BRASSO instead - which will give you a better and cleaner polishing....Trust me....I tried all these already. Brasso actually is easier to take out RUST....that's what I found out while polishing.

PS" My Yamaha was in Mint condition...yes no rust on all hardware - but the shell is YELLOW instead of white - because it's in the storeroom for 25 years...now it's White but takes 6 months as I mention above.

My Pearl MLX Kit - Wah see-beh chai-lat one - yet I took out all Rust (working on it 12 hours a day for 2 days) got very bad backache after that....AT the end of day - I changes all Hardwares (meaning only cymbal stands, tom holders only) the rest Original......The Shell also chai-lat...some scratch mark cannot be remove...nevermind.

The 1969 Ludwig Snare - wah is - Bery bery bery chai-lat (aluminium shall)...I polish like hell as describe above - but only managed to make it look much better but still old - cant do any better and feel good still.

The Green Yamaha 9pc kit - Polish like hell also no use - can't take the rust out - the rust had eaten inside - only way is to Chrome it .... AT it's cheapest Lugs, Rims, Screw, Tom Brackets, Floor Tom Legs will cost me S$700.00 (cheapest unless got Kang-Tow if not even higher) - This does not include stands eg Cymbals & hi-ha stands......might as well buy new one - so I didn't chrome it.

The Bad News is I hate Polishing - cause it gives me Backache (old man liao) imagine sitting downstair from 12pm in the afternoon till 12pm midnite - just polishing - that's what I did. The Good News is after that you look back at the finished job.you really feel good - it's rejuvenated....you post here - then people say "Wah nice.eee ley"...what a nice feeling...suddenly all backache gone liao.

My dear Bro caijunlong - of course no problem - just let me know when you wanna do it - we both do it together - SHINE-UP your kit man......
 
Polish the Shell with Drum Polish or Guitarist polish

hey eric, i don't really get this part...

u mean polish the inner part of the shell OR polish the outer part of the shell OR polish the chrome lugs ON the Shell???

But low end/entry level kits are usually wrapped, those stuff can't be polished since it's plastic....

i have no experience removing rusts on lugs/tension rods/throw offs but chrome polishers or brasso or autosol should be no problem removing the rusts unless it has eaten through the chrome.
 
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