POSTURE in Drumming
- Thread starter DNatasha
- Start date
chud
New member
for that natasha, it depends on what you're comfortable with. for me, i like my seat low, my knees probably bent at 90 degrees and tip toe-ing on my pedals, since i play heel up. i use the ball of my foot for my bass hits. i use mainly my ankles and shin when im playing fast, but when i play slower i use my hips to drive the whole of my feet into the pedals.
DAVE LOMBARDO RULES!!
DAVE LOMBARDO RULES!!
weckl-x
New member
Here's a post over at another forum that I found pretty useful. Some of you out there might wanna look to it as a guide in the process of adjusting your kit setup to be most ergonomic as possible.
All text in red belongs to:
Credits & Copyright: Patrick Wiseman (Usernick: Ptrick)
Source URL: http://www.cymbalholic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215
Kit set-up efficiency
by Patrick Wiseman
Great topic. There have been some good points made. Many of you here know I am a professional drummer and also instructor. Now is a good time to let you know how I got there.
I have a muscle condition that makes my muscles tense up into painful spasms if they are overused or used incorrectly. It was a frightening diagnosis because they told me (at 22 years old) that I would not be able to do things that required much repitition (ie drums). I wouldn't have it...I had to play...no choice...So I had to learn a new way because the way I was doing it was damaging my body.
I discovered the Moeller method, and that allowed me to play for longer periods much more relaxed. I studied the methods of Jim Chapin and Freddie Gruber, and got a chance to ask Jim himself a few different times for clarification on certain things. Ok, so off the soapbox.
I now am an instructor because of my condition..I realized these methods and techniques are good for everybody, and something that was lacking in drum instruction all over (consequently then Weckl comes out with his series of videos on it...) I now do clinics and workshops on setup and techniques that are efficient and healthy for the body, which also increase speed, accuracy, and stamina.
These tips I'm going to give where all arrived at also with the help of several PHD Physical Therapists in San Francisco involved in Physiology, Kinaesthetics, and Anatomy (they were nice enough to help me along the way using video's and demonstrations).
Let me preface this all by stating that while everybody is different and everyone has different preferences and habits, the laws that rule our body are NOT. You cannot fight the way your body is built and the way it is supposed to function. As pointed out, set-up will be different for every person because of different body types, but the guidelines will all be the same.
I'll go in the order I set up my kit, basically from the ground up.
IMPORTANT: Setup your kit IN FRONT OF A MIRROR. You will not be able to see the angles of your arms, legs, and observe your posture unless you can SEE YOURSELF. Practising in front of a mirror is also great to do to see when you are tensing up.
1) Seat height
As mentioned, this one is something many people mess around with. The basic guideline is to have the angle of your legs AT LEAST 90 degrees (more is ok, less is not). This is the most efficient position for sitting, and for drumming, an angle slightly above 90 degrees is preferred because you are raising your legs up and down. Too low and you are putting too much pressure on your hip flexors, too high and you are straining your lower back and hamstrings.
2) Stance:
This is SUPER IMPORTANT!I'm amazed how many players do not obey this basic rule...Your stance should be shoulder width apart, with your feet the SAME DISTANCE apart and the same distance out from your body. Your feet should also point slighty out like you are making a wide "V" with your feet. The mistake most people make is putting their bass drum directly in front of them and then moving their hi hat in towards them to get it closer. THis creates an awkward stance to say the least, and is horrible for your lower back (your muscles are all out of alignment) and does not promote balance.
3) Sit up straight!
With your stance at shoulder width apart, you should feel the weight over your pelvis. It is crucial to maintain a curve in your lower back lumbar area and not to slouch. People slouch to relax, not realizing that it streches the muscles of your back tremendously, and can result in the muscles becoming used to this, and you will always retain that posture, even while standing...Ever seen an old person? I looked like that at 20 because of horrible posture. Also, poor posture makes your heart and lungs work harder because it collapses your ribcage.
4) Pedals:
Your pedals should be exactly where your feet are when you have your stance at shoulder width apart and your legs at 90 degrees. Any other position and you are working too hard, and you have thrown off your center of balance.
5) Snare Drum:
Think of this as your steering wheel. It has to be equally accessable with both hands, and directly in front of you. I will now break it down to matched and traditional grips, because the positions are different.
Matched: With your arms relaxed by your side, raise up your arms to 90 degrees. With your wrist completely straight and in line with your arm, lower your arms JUST A HAIR from 90 degrees. This is your snare height.
How far away from your body is accomplished by having the stick tips right in the center of the drum with your arms right next to the side of your body. The most powerful position in striking a drum is with your wrist straight in line with your arm, and 90 degrees, basically with the stick parallel to the ground. If you have your arms at 90 degrees, your wrist straight, and your palms down, you should notice that the angle the stick sits in your hand is NOT flat. It is slightly angled towards your body.
Your snare angle should accommodate this, and it should be one or two clicks towards you. IF you play with your snare flat, you are sacrificing the last part of your stroke because your wrist will have to hit the drum at an angle, which is not healthy.
If you angle your snare extensively, you actually go TOO FAR and put your wrist in a very dangerous position (flexed upward). When you at the optimal point of contact (wrist straight) your body can absorb the shock the best.
Traditional grip: With your arms relaxed by your side, raise both hands up to 90 degrees. You will notice that the stick in your left hand will be at about a 45 degree angle. You will need to adjust the snare to this exact angle. With your wrist straight and your arms at 90, this is your snare height. Again, how far away is determined by the stick tips being dead in the center of the drum with your arms right next to your side.
6) Floor tom:
The most important part about this drum is that it is directly in line with your snare drum, so that if you are flamming your snare and floor tom, both hands are at the same place (you do not want your elbow behind your body to hit your floor tom, which will look like a chicken wing...this will force you to uncomfortably twist and tense up your muscles every time you have to hit the floor tom with your right hand. The height of your floor tom should be the same as your snare. For traditional grip, the level of your right hand on the snare will determine the height of the floor tom, so basically you can lay a stick between your snare and floor tom and it will be perfectly straight.
7) Mounted tom 1:
For single tom setup or multi tom setup the position is the same. The tom should go at the 1 O clock position if your snare is at 12 O'clock. The reason it is not directly in front of the snare is because we move to the right, and having it directly in front of your snare does not facilitate a smooth motion to the floor tom. This drum will have to be angled slightly downward at the same angle the snare is at, and you can determine this by checking where the wrist would make contact in the completely straight position.
The height will be determined by the contact point in the centre of the drum, which should be at the height of your sternum. The reason for this is that the most powerful point of contact when moving AWAY from your body is at sternum level. You can check the height of your contact point by putting two sticks together to form a straight line from your sternum to the middle of the drum. Your elbows will be extended no further than where your legs meet the front of your pelvis when hitting your first tom, and your elbows should remain close to your body (not flapping outward).
8 ) Mounted tom 2:
This drum will be essentially right next to mounted tom 1, except slightly lower. Our body naturally rolls to the right when we move that way, so we need to steadily move downward as we move right. YOu may have to mess with the position of the floor tom so that the second tom is overhanging the floor tom, so that you still have the floor tom and snare right next to each other (VERY IMPORTANT).
9)Hi hats:
Basically the position of them is already set by your stance, and unless your body is anatomically incorrect (sometimes it is..longer legs, shorter arms), you should not have to adjust anything but the height. The height of the hi hat IF YOU PLAN TO USE IT OFTEN AS A TIMEKEEPER should be slightly lower than your sternum. We have it slightly lower because we cannot angle it downward slightly like we do the toms and cymbals (more on that later). This may seem high, but it is the most effecient position of contact if you plan to use it as a timekeeper often, and will give you enough clearance for your left hand on the snare. Remember you should be making contact with your wrist straight with your arm. If you do not often keep time with your snare and hats (jazz), you can lower the hi hat to whatever level feels comfortable.
10)Ride Cymbal:
This ideally should be set to the right of tom 1 in a single tom setup, and overhanging tom 2 slightly in a multi tom setup. The position of the ride should be such that your arm is in line with your right leg...not on top of it, but just outside it. This is the most efficient position, and you will get the most power here.
Your elbow will no longer be on the side of your body next to your ribcage, but forward a bit, even with your chest. The height of the ride AGAIN will be at the level of your sternum..ideally your hi hat, tom 1, and ride contact points will all be at the same height.
The cymbals should always be angled toward your belly button or pelvis at approx 40-45 degree angle because again this position is where you can make contact with your wrist in the straight position.
If you have a multi tom setup, you may have to raise your ride up a bit and move it slightly to the right so it clears tom 2. It is ok to have some overhang over tom 2. Just remember to move the cymbal so that your elbow is still no further in front of you than your chest. The cymbal should be at the same angle as your toms, and 2-3 inches above your second tom.
Your left side cymbal will be higher than your ride. It will be the same angle as your toms, snare, and ride. It should sit about 3 inches above tom 1 and slightly to the left. Remember to raise your arms up like a forklift and not to raise your elbows much to crash the cymbals.
****The height difference between your left side cymbal and ride should be the same (proportionally) as the distance between your first tom and floor tom (remember the body moves down the further right you go).
Another point of interest is that ideally the stick positions are identical in matched and traditional, creating an upside down "V", so with exception to the snare drum, the setup should be the same for matched and traditional.
Everything on your kit should be angled the same way, towards your pelvis. Remember the optimal contact point is with your arm bent 90 degrees for snare and floor tom, and at sternum level for mounted tom, hi hat, and ride.
Holy crap...this turned into a 'manifesto' of sorts. I apologize for the length and detail, it is just something I am extremely passionate about. People usually have to pay for this knowledge at my clinics and in lessons, but I like you guys, so I give it away for free. Someday I'll get a video or book out there.
Everyone is built different, but the guidelines stay the same.
Patrick Wiseman
Later additional responses to questions:
I wanted to add to my post a couple of things...when I specified 'wrist straight' at the contact point I am specifically referring to palms down, german type grip where you use your wrist joint to facilitate movement of the stick (like you are waving your hand at someone up and down or bouncing a ball). For traditional the left hand will still make contact with your wrist neutral, and your hand position will be halfway between palms down and palm all the way up. For the ride, I flip my hand up so that the wrist is almost in the same position as the left hand in traditional grip (hand halfway between palms down and palms up), although you still are holding the stick in your fingers in the matched way with your right (only your wrist has flipped up). This allows you to play jazz ride patterns without sacrificing wrist position.
Visually, if you are playing jazz on the ride and comping with your left on the snare, your hands will both be slightly upturned and will look like you are about to clap your hands together.
Hope this helps clarify.
Yes, everything is relative to your height. Basically, the height will be different for everyone because of this, although the LEVEL should still be the same (Legs at at least 90 degrees). Everything else will depend on this being correct.
Sure. If you have your stance set up already, basically start with your elbows resting at your side and the sticks all the way down touching the floor. Then raise your arms up to 90 degrees (so your upper arm and forearm create a perfect right angle).
If you look at your left hand in traditional grip, the position should be so that your left wrist is turned about halfway the distance between your palm down and your palm facing up (as if you were going to raise your hand up to say the pledge of allegiance with your hand on your left pec, and then lowered your hand down keeping the same angle of your wrist).
With the stick between your your second finger and thumb, you should notice about a 40 to 45 degree angle of the stick with your wrist straight in line with your arm.
If you arm is at 90 degrees, this should be where you place your snare drum...this is the most efficient place for it. Angle the drum so that it is at the exact angle your stick lies. How far away you can determine by the tip of your stick...you want the tip of your stick in the exact center of the drum while your elbow is still at your side and your arm is still at 90 degrees.
Credits & Copyright: Patrick Wiseman
Source URL: http://www.cymbalholic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215
All text in red belongs to:
Credits & Copyright: Patrick Wiseman (Usernick: Ptrick)
Source URL: http://www.cymbalholic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215
Kit set-up efficiency
by Patrick Wiseman
Great topic. There have been some good points made. Many of you here know I am a professional drummer and also instructor. Now is a good time to let you know how I got there.
I have a muscle condition that makes my muscles tense up into painful spasms if they are overused or used incorrectly. It was a frightening diagnosis because they told me (at 22 years old) that I would not be able to do things that required much repitition (ie drums). I wouldn't have it...I had to play...no choice...So I had to learn a new way because the way I was doing it was damaging my body.
I discovered the Moeller method, and that allowed me to play for longer periods much more relaxed. I studied the methods of Jim Chapin and Freddie Gruber, and got a chance to ask Jim himself a few different times for clarification on certain things. Ok, so off the soapbox.
I now am an instructor because of my condition..I realized these methods and techniques are good for everybody, and something that was lacking in drum instruction all over (consequently then Weckl comes out with his series of videos on it...) I now do clinics and workshops on setup and techniques that are efficient and healthy for the body, which also increase speed, accuracy, and stamina.
These tips I'm going to give where all arrived at also with the help of several PHD Physical Therapists in San Francisco involved in Physiology, Kinaesthetics, and Anatomy (they were nice enough to help me along the way using video's and demonstrations).
Let me preface this all by stating that while everybody is different and everyone has different preferences and habits, the laws that rule our body are NOT. You cannot fight the way your body is built and the way it is supposed to function. As pointed out, set-up will be different for every person because of different body types, but the guidelines will all be the same.
I'll go in the order I set up my kit, basically from the ground up.
IMPORTANT: Setup your kit IN FRONT OF A MIRROR. You will not be able to see the angles of your arms, legs, and observe your posture unless you can SEE YOURSELF. Practising in front of a mirror is also great to do to see when you are tensing up.
1) Seat height
As mentioned, this one is something many people mess around with. The basic guideline is to have the angle of your legs AT LEAST 90 degrees (more is ok, less is not). This is the most efficient position for sitting, and for drumming, an angle slightly above 90 degrees is preferred because you are raising your legs up and down. Too low and you are putting too much pressure on your hip flexors, too high and you are straining your lower back and hamstrings.
2) Stance:
This is SUPER IMPORTANT!I'm amazed how many players do not obey this basic rule...Your stance should be shoulder width apart, with your feet the SAME DISTANCE apart and the same distance out from your body. Your feet should also point slighty out like you are making a wide "V" with your feet. The mistake most people make is putting their bass drum directly in front of them and then moving their hi hat in towards them to get it closer. THis creates an awkward stance to say the least, and is horrible for your lower back (your muscles are all out of alignment) and does not promote balance.
3) Sit up straight!
With your stance at shoulder width apart, you should feel the weight over your pelvis. It is crucial to maintain a curve in your lower back lumbar area and not to slouch. People slouch to relax, not realizing that it streches the muscles of your back tremendously, and can result in the muscles becoming used to this, and you will always retain that posture, even while standing...Ever seen an old person? I looked like that at 20 because of horrible posture. Also, poor posture makes your heart and lungs work harder because it collapses your ribcage.
4) Pedals:
Your pedals should be exactly where your feet are when you have your stance at shoulder width apart and your legs at 90 degrees. Any other position and you are working too hard, and you have thrown off your center of balance.
5) Snare Drum:
Think of this as your steering wheel. It has to be equally accessable with both hands, and directly in front of you. I will now break it down to matched and traditional grips, because the positions are different.
Matched: With your arms relaxed by your side, raise up your arms to 90 degrees. With your wrist completely straight and in line with your arm, lower your arms JUST A HAIR from 90 degrees. This is your snare height.
How far away from your body is accomplished by having the stick tips right in the center of the drum with your arms right next to the side of your body. The most powerful position in striking a drum is with your wrist straight in line with your arm, and 90 degrees, basically with the stick parallel to the ground. If you have your arms at 90 degrees, your wrist straight, and your palms down, you should notice that the angle the stick sits in your hand is NOT flat. It is slightly angled towards your body.
Your snare angle should accommodate this, and it should be one or two clicks towards you. IF you play with your snare flat, you are sacrificing the last part of your stroke because your wrist will have to hit the drum at an angle, which is not healthy.
If you angle your snare extensively, you actually go TOO FAR and put your wrist in a very dangerous position (flexed upward). When you at the optimal point of contact (wrist straight) your body can absorb the shock the best.
Traditional grip: With your arms relaxed by your side, raise both hands up to 90 degrees. You will notice that the stick in your left hand will be at about a 45 degree angle. You will need to adjust the snare to this exact angle. With your wrist straight and your arms at 90, this is your snare height. Again, how far away is determined by the stick tips being dead in the center of the drum with your arms right next to your side.
6) Floor tom:
The most important part about this drum is that it is directly in line with your snare drum, so that if you are flamming your snare and floor tom, both hands are at the same place (you do not want your elbow behind your body to hit your floor tom, which will look like a chicken wing...this will force you to uncomfortably twist and tense up your muscles every time you have to hit the floor tom with your right hand. The height of your floor tom should be the same as your snare. For traditional grip, the level of your right hand on the snare will determine the height of the floor tom, so basically you can lay a stick between your snare and floor tom and it will be perfectly straight.
7) Mounted tom 1:
For single tom setup or multi tom setup the position is the same. The tom should go at the 1 O clock position if your snare is at 12 O'clock. The reason it is not directly in front of the snare is because we move to the right, and having it directly in front of your snare does not facilitate a smooth motion to the floor tom. This drum will have to be angled slightly downward at the same angle the snare is at, and you can determine this by checking where the wrist would make contact in the completely straight position.
The height will be determined by the contact point in the centre of the drum, which should be at the height of your sternum. The reason for this is that the most powerful point of contact when moving AWAY from your body is at sternum level. You can check the height of your contact point by putting two sticks together to form a straight line from your sternum to the middle of the drum. Your elbows will be extended no further than where your legs meet the front of your pelvis when hitting your first tom, and your elbows should remain close to your body (not flapping outward).
8 ) Mounted tom 2:
This drum will be essentially right next to mounted tom 1, except slightly lower. Our body naturally rolls to the right when we move that way, so we need to steadily move downward as we move right. YOu may have to mess with the position of the floor tom so that the second tom is overhanging the floor tom, so that you still have the floor tom and snare right next to each other (VERY IMPORTANT).
9)Hi hats:
Basically the position of them is already set by your stance, and unless your body is anatomically incorrect (sometimes it is..longer legs, shorter arms), you should not have to adjust anything but the height. The height of the hi hat IF YOU PLAN TO USE IT OFTEN AS A TIMEKEEPER should be slightly lower than your sternum. We have it slightly lower because we cannot angle it downward slightly like we do the toms and cymbals (more on that later). This may seem high, but it is the most effecient position of contact if you plan to use it as a timekeeper often, and will give you enough clearance for your left hand on the snare. Remember you should be making contact with your wrist straight with your arm. If you do not often keep time with your snare and hats (jazz), you can lower the hi hat to whatever level feels comfortable.
10)Ride Cymbal:
This ideally should be set to the right of tom 1 in a single tom setup, and overhanging tom 2 slightly in a multi tom setup. The position of the ride should be such that your arm is in line with your right leg...not on top of it, but just outside it. This is the most efficient position, and you will get the most power here.
Your elbow will no longer be on the side of your body next to your ribcage, but forward a bit, even with your chest. The height of the ride AGAIN will be at the level of your sternum..ideally your hi hat, tom 1, and ride contact points will all be at the same height.
The cymbals should always be angled toward your belly button or pelvis at approx 40-45 degree angle because again this position is where you can make contact with your wrist in the straight position.
If you have a multi tom setup, you may have to raise your ride up a bit and move it slightly to the right so it clears tom 2. It is ok to have some overhang over tom 2. Just remember to move the cymbal so that your elbow is still no further in front of you than your chest. The cymbal should be at the same angle as your toms, and 2-3 inches above your second tom.
Your left side cymbal will be higher than your ride. It will be the same angle as your toms, snare, and ride. It should sit about 3 inches above tom 1 and slightly to the left. Remember to raise your arms up like a forklift and not to raise your elbows much to crash the cymbals.
****The height difference between your left side cymbal and ride should be the same (proportionally) as the distance between your first tom and floor tom (remember the body moves down the further right you go).
Another point of interest is that ideally the stick positions are identical in matched and traditional, creating an upside down "V", so with exception to the snare drum, the setup should be the same for matched and traditional.
Everything on your kit should be angled the same way, towards your pelvis. Remember the optimal contact point is with your arm bent 90 degrees for snare and floor tom, and at sternum level for mounted tom, hi hat, and ride.
Holy crap...this turned into a 'manifesto' of sorts. I apologize for the length and detail, it is just something I am extremely passionate about. People usually have to pay for this knowledge at my clinics and in lessons, but I like you guys, so I give it away for free. Someday I'll get a video or book out there.
Everyone is built different, but the guidelines stay the same.
Patrick Wiseman
Later additional responses to questions:
I wanted to add to my post a couple of things...when I specified 'wrist straight' at the contact point I am specifically referring to palms down, german type grip where you use your wrist joint to facilitate movement of the stick (like you are waving your hand at someone up and down or bouncing a ball). For traditional the left hand will still make contact with your wrist neutral, and your hand position will be halfway between palms down and palm all the way up. For the ride, I flip my hand up so that the wrist is almost in the same position as the left hand in traditional grip (hand halfway between palms down and palms up), although you still are holding the stick in your fingers in the matched way with your right (only your wrist has flipped up). This allows you to play jazz ride patterns without sacrificing wrist position.
Visually, if you are playing jazz on the ride and comping with your left on the snare, your hands will both be slightly upturned and will look like you are about to clap your hands together.
Hope this helps clarify.
Yes, everything is relative to your height. Basically, the height will be different for everyone because of this, although the LEVEL should still be the same (Legs at at least 90 degrees). Everything else will depend on this being correct.
Sure. If you have your stance set up already, basically start with your elbows resting at your side and the sticks all the way down touching the floor. Then raise your arms up to 90 degrees (so your upper arm and forearm create a perfect right angle).
If you look at your left hand in traditional grip, the position should be so that your left wrist is turned about halfway the distance between your palm down and your palm facing up (as if you were going to raise your hand up to say the pledge of allegiance with your hand on your left pec, and then lowered your hand down keeping the same angle of your wrist).
With the stick between your your second finger and thumb, you should notice about a 40 to 45 degree angle of the stick with your wrist straight in line with your arm.
If you arm is at 90 degrees, this should be where you place your snare drum...this is the most efficient place for it. Angle the drum so that it is at the exact angle your stick lies. How far away you can determine by the tip of your stick...you want the tip of your stick in the exact center of the drum while your elbow is still at your side and your arm is still at 90 degrees.
Credits & Copyright: Patrick Wiseman
Source URL: http://www.cymbalholic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=215
drum_hobbyist
New member
A principle to remember - Let the kit be adjusted to you... not the other way round... :idea:
DullTheater
Member
wah.. so many to take note ah???
i tot is 'up to wat you feel is comfy' thingy?
i tot is 'up to wat you feel is comfy' thingy?
plainsman
New member
hey DNatasha,
we're having a drummer's meet up and informal sharing/exchange session this saturday 12pm onwards at ulu pandan community club, wind symphony room.
it will be generally casual and everyone is willing to learn and share, pls drop by if you are free =)
hope to see you there!
warm regards,
alfe
we're having a drummer's meet up and informal sharing/exchange session this saturday 12pm onwards at ulu pandan community club, wind symphony room.
it will be generally casual and everyone is willing to learn and share, pls drop by if you are free =)
hope to see you there!
warm regards,
alfe
plainsman
New member
heh chud... its near buona vista mrt (west side) try using www.streetdirectory.com to locate
don't post street directory maps here though! (think got legal issue)
cheers
don't post street directory maps here though! (think got legal issue)
cheers
RudimentalDrummer
Moderator
yes Good Thread & Great Post Bro Weckl...
I remember I told Tama Goh last month that I ordered a Pearl Seat/Stool (the High-End One with the Back-Rest from Swee Lee ...cause I am old man liao - Backache lah Bros)...Tama said to me - "This is most important Eric - You must sit well to play well".
Hahaha I also remember my Mentor Tony - He always tell me "Sit Properly lah - Adjust the Kit before you play - No Proper Balance How to have a better control in your playing"....(especially when it comes to Double-Bass Drum - I always off-balance one)
The same goes with my current Instructor Alvin - "He shows and tell me how to have the Correct Posture while I'm sitting - then right legs like that, left legs like that, hands like that...Kekekeke at first - I lost balance cannot play properly cause he always point my body leaning backwards not straight - as most people tends to do that when off-balance -so true and he advice me to control and lean forward my body - very very good advice here"...so I train myself to always sit like that while playing..
I play better now really (it's true)..but sometimes I forget - back to my lazy pattern - I hope I will remind myself to sit properly before I start playing everytime instead of like now still - get excited just sit down and play till I realise - "Hey feeling funny ley - how come uncomfotable doing this or that - then stop - adjust here and ther (which should be other way round - 1st adjust then start playing)..
Mt Pearl Seat is comming on 1st-week of July (Helmi just call me 2 days ago) - GST 7%...and this blady seat cost me S$400.00 (somemore they gave me a good discount liao)......what to do - I want the Back-Rest (I guess that's being lazy of me so I can lean back)...but I will remind myself to sit properly - wait next time I play kit that got no backrest - Hahahaha I fall backwards...that one nebermind - wait malu lah - drummer fall down..how can.
About placing of Snare, Toms, Floor Toms - Last time - I don't know - always make my kit High high - yaya papaya - thinking that wah my kit looks big when it looks like that (cymbal also must put high high up one)...but playing is damn tired - If I swing a long time - I get tired cause I stress myself which is bad for any Drummer. As I observed other professional and good drummers - I see that they put the toms, snare near to each other for easy reach, the snare and floor tom - just enough to stuck my right leg inbetween - I then follow and realise that this made my playing easier - I don't over-stress myself now with the right settings and I will not hurt and harm my body - because Drumming is really very Physical -good and correct setting is utmost important here. No wonder me wify cannot stand me drumming last time (actually even today)- 1st I play damn loud (no control), me wify, maid & Father hide inside the room close the door - then when I finished...I need to go walk around the park to relax my muscle, then come home call wify massage my back everynight......until she wanted to sell all my drums away she say when I'm not around....of course she would not dare - I'll divorce her if she did that....hahaha :lol:
PS: - I Actually told her "It's your priviledge can massage my back you know somemore complain, you think anyone can massage one meh...Kekekeke" you know lah I'm very naughty one.
I learn so much along the way - now I become wiser liao.Hehehe
I remember I told Tama Goh last month that I ordered a Pearl Seat/Stool (the High-End One with the Back-Rest from Swee Lee ...cause I am old man liao - Backache lah Bros)...Tama said to me - "This is most important Eric - You must sit well to play well".
Hahaha I also remember my Mentor Tony - He always tell me "Sit Properly lah - Adjust the Kit before you play - No Proper Balance How to have a better control in your playing"....(especially when it comes to Double-Bass Drum - I always off-balance one)
The same goes with my current Instructor Alvin - "He shows and tell me how to have the Correct Posture while I'm sitting - then right legs like that, left legs like that, hands like that...Kekekeke at first - I lost balance cannot play properly cause he always point my body leaning backwards not straight - as most people tends to do that when off-balance -so true and he advice me to control and lean forward my body - very very good advice here"...so I train myself to always sit like that while playing..
I play better now really (it's true)..but sometimes I forget - back to my lazy pattern - I hope I will remind myself to sit properly before I start playing everytime instead of like now still - get excited just sit down and play till I realise - "Hey feeling funny ley - how come uncomfotable doing this or that - then stop - adjust here and ther (which should be other way round - 1st adjust then start playing)..
Mt Pearl Seat is comming on 1st-week of July (Helmi just call me 2 days ago) - GST 7%...and this blady seat cost me S$400.00 (somemore they gave me a good discount liao)......what to do - I want the Back-Rest (I guess that's being lazy of me so I can lean back)...but I will remind myself to sit properly - wait next time I play kit that got no backrest - Hahahaha I fall backwards...that one nebermind - wait malu lah - drummer fall down..how can.
About placing of Snare, Toms, Floor Toms - Last time - I don't know - always make my kit High high - yaya papaya - thinking that wah my kit looks big when it looks like that (cymbal also must put high high up one)...but playing is damn tired - If I swing a long time - I get tired cause I stress myself which is bad for any Drummer. As I observed other professional and good drummers - I see that they put the toms, snare near to each other for easy reach, the snare and floor tom - just enough to stuck my right leg inbetween - I then follow and realise that this made my playing easier - I don't over-stress myself now with the right settings and I will not hurt and harm my body - because Drumming is really very Physical -good and correct setting is utmost important here. No wonder me wify cannot stand me drumming last time (actually even today)- 1st I play damn loud (no control), me wify, maid & Father hide inside the room close the door - then when I finished...I need to go walk around the park to relax my muscle, then come home call wify massage my back everynight......until she wanted to sell all my drums away she say when I'm not around....of course she would not dare - I'll divorce her if she did that....hahaha :lol:
PS: - I Actually told her "It's your priviledge can massage my back you know somemore complain, you think anyone can massage one meh...Kekekeke" you know lah I'm very naughty one.
I learn so much along the way - now I become wiser liao.Hehehe
RudimentalDrummer
Moderator
Bro blurr - I found out that many Female cannot stands drumming (unless they are a female drummer)...Majority of GFs & Wify sure complain one...and hell lot on it...like we spending all our time on drumming and not on them.
PS; - Cannot lah I cannot divorse me wify one - she finance me alot of $$$$$$$$$$$$$ on my gears & such..though she complain and complain so much....where to find lah woman like that and she really support me alot by giving me all the time - for me to spend on Music eg Jamming, Drum-Meetups, Pubbing, Any opther drumming Activities I go - somemore accepting my ...Womanising Nature (close both eyes here)...
She is a great wife.
Na-bei you call me Old-Ah Beng Look - you wanna die faster izzit har?....not scared people TL har? :smt075 ...Kekekekeke :smt040
PS; - Cannot lah I cannot divorse me wify one - she finance me alot of $$$$$$$$$$$$$ on my gears & such..though she complain and complain so much....where to find lah woman like that and she really support me alot by giving me all the time - for me to spend on Music eg Jamming, Drum-Meetups, Pubbing, Any opther drumming Activities I go - somemore accepting my ...Womanising Nature (close both eyes here)...
She is a great wife.
Na-bei you call me Old-Ah Beng Look - you wanna die faster izzit har?....not scared people TL har? :smt075 ...Kekekekeke :smt040
