Faber Bridge and Tailpiece

[aero_91]

just wondering if anyone has the TOM and stopbar on their guitars here?
anyone knows the quality of faber hardware?

i just ordered a set of nashville abr bridge with natural brass saddles, aluminum tailpiece and the 4mm/8mm conversion studs for my epiphone les paul from tokaiguitar.de

its pretty expensive tho, cost me around $180 for everything including shipping. they have titanium tailpiece too, that cost like 195euros each.

 

[dudelove]

Oh I've not heard much about Faber tailpieces. Why didn't you consider Callaham, since you're willing to spend so much?

 

[aero_91]

haha yeah i've heard about callaham, but faber seems to be more affordable. and i still have lots of upgrades to do. no harm trying out on new stuff, should be a rather good upgrade(i hope). will let you know when the stuff arrive all the way from germany.

 

[tonemanz]

Hi everyone, not sure if it's too late to share? But for the benefit of anyone who is going to read this thread. I've installed the faber locking bridge, ABRM bridge and aluminum locking tailplate on my '97 Gibson LP std plus. Tried the BSWKIT stud and NSWKIT stud too. You may already figured that my LP has the nashville bridge.

The faber product just give me clarity, sustain and dynamic in playing. The tone is alot clearer, sustain forever, perfect intonation, I could better adjust the bridge height and my palm is much more comfortable resting on the bridge while playing without any issue such as muting strings or effecting the bridge in anyway.

My recommendation, if you have a nashville bridge, go for the BSWKIT. You will notice the sustain and big improvement in tone.
I would prefer the none locking faber ABR bridge then the locking ones. The locking will gave you more sustain, however to my ears some sound/frequency are lot becos it can't vibrate as freely as compare to the none locking ones. I may not be doing it right with fully tightening the locking nut. But, hey you will not regret with either option but I prefer the non locking.


Faber vs Callaham? This part is purely my personal preferences but both are great product to me. The Callaham got improve your tone, sustain and etc as faber. In fact brighter and clearer that faber. However, I can't get over the look of the callaham bridge and I would prefer faber sound which is just adding clarity and definition to the original sound. As compare to callaham, it's a great sound but alot more modern sounding to me and very close to how my Ibanez RGA121 is. Don't get me wrong, it's really a good sounding Gibby but I just prefer the original gibby look and sound.This is also the same experience I have replacing my Strat Bridge too. I went back to the original fender bridge in just 3 weeks. But that's me! I've shared my opinions and hopefully it helps you in choosing what is good for you.

One last thing, Larry's service is the best. Fastest reply, fastest update and fastest shipment at a great price. And faber product quality is built rock solid. Callaham seems better build and looks better(can't compare how shiny steel vs Zinc/Alum).

Ok, that's all. Hopefully this info help you in your Gibby tone quest.

 

[dudelove]

Thanks for your review! I completely agree with your points! Now I'd like to share too..

My LP's equipped with a Bigsby, and the tuning problems have always given me a headache. So I swapped to a Wilkinson roller bridge. The tuning problems did improve, but reading up on forums like MLP and TGP and all the ravings about how bridge upgrades can do this and that, and the amount of money people spend on products like Callaham and Pigtail, made me wonder, am I missing something?

My LP initially came with a Nashville bridge, but due to the break angle of the strings, the wider Nashville bridge edge came into contact with the strings causing even more tuning issues. I figured, maybe with a thinner ABR-1 bridge it'll do the trick, just thin enough to preven the strings from touching the edge of the bridge, perhaps that's how Neil Young does it.

I decided to order from Faber, since it's more affordable than Callaham. (I would pay for a chrome Callaham bridge, but my guitar has gold hardware, making the price of Callaham INCREDIBLY expensive.) This time I ordered with little expectations, this was somewhat a tonal experiment, since I was pretty satisifed with how my LP sounded with the roller bridge. I ordered the NSWKIT steel bridge studs for Nashville conversion and the locking ABR-1 bridge.

When I fitted them on and played the guitar, (I reused my old strings) I was shocked, the tonal difference was HUGE. I was amazed, and this ain't no hype bullshit. My guitar sounded so much clearer, the twang of my PAFs became apparent, much firmer lows, chimier highs. Sustain was just way more than before. From a skeptic to a firm believer. I figured that there was such a big difference because the roller bridge I used before SUCKED. Now I know why people stay away from them. Plus the one I had was cheap and from GFS and who knows what material it was made of.

Upgrading hardare? DO IT. It really pays off. I credit my guitars amazing tone alot to my new bridge.

 

[tonemanz]

Hey! forgot to mention that if you are having a Corina nut, replace it with a Tusq. If you are having a bone nut or nylon nut, keep it as it is. A Tusq/nylon/bone nut + Faber bridge + locking tailplate kills. Believe me, it's from my experience replacing my 3 LPs. A 96' Gibson LP Studio, 97 Gibson LP std Plus (both have Corina nut) and my 2010 Gibson LP Std 59 VOS(I kept the nylon nut).

Imagine my LP studio and Std plus with the Fabers + Tusq nut was almost equal if not better than my factory default VOS.
It does not stop there!
The VOS(long neck tenon + tone wood) with Faber mod.... sweet!!! I refuse to put it down whenever I pick my VOS up on the weekend(working on weekdays). It just sound so good, I refuse to put it down... I just did a 16 hr straight jamming with all my fav backing track last Sat...