discussion on string tension and playability

[glblues]

i posted this at The Gear Page forum but i reckon our local guitarists would benefit from this info.

this is just me trying to tie up all the loose ends on string tension and how to solve it, to make it looser (if desired. or tighter. just reverse the suggestion) as there is no guitar database of knowledge persay.

its just me theorising things and putting what i have read and played into effect. i hope it makes sense and please correct me if i am wrong anywhere. i'm still hazy about things

use the information to adjust how you would like your guitar to play. as people have said, playability is a personal thing.

to make string tension looser and/or to have better perceived looser string tension (bendability/playability, call it what you wish), the following can be looked into to reduce the tension:


strings - a) string gauge: the lower the gauge, the looser the tension.
b) string winding: how the strings go on the tuning post affects the tension. making the angle where the string goes to the nut shallower relieves tension.
c) string height: higher action (more than 1.5mm?) on the high E to aid better bending. low action on the rest of the strings.
d) string brand: some string brands like ernie ball slinkies with a low corewire add to a "slinkier" feel when bending.

tuning - tuning down to (say) Eb shortens the scale length to about 24" (if i am correct)

bridge - change from string-thru to a toploading bridge. (the shortening of string length.)

nut - a) lubricating the nut (with graphite, nut sauce, etc)
b) reshaping the nut grooves to allow the strings to vibrate more (this is what i have heard?)
c) changing to a graphtech nut to get the lubricating feel
d) nut height. the higher the nut adds resistance to string tension

string tree - getting rid of string trees or loosening the screw that binds it down to relieve the pressure

frets - a) opting for a higher fretwire to give a perceived "looser" string tension. (6105s, 6100s. again, this depending on which fret brand you use.)
b) polishing the frets to get rid of nicks and having them leveled, crowned and smoothened add to a easier perceived tension due to easy bending

saddles - checking the break angle. too high and it adds string tension. checking saddle material (graphite helps bending resistence.)

fretboards - maple boards add more resistance to bending versus rosewood.

scale length - the shorter the scale length, the more slinky the string tension

truss rod - tightening up the rod to allow for less relief

6 saddles versus 3 saddles - 6 saddles tend to provide a looser tension? (anyone? not sure about this but i have heard it in forums. based on limited experience, perhaps it might be true)

tremolos - some say that a floating trem aids bendability, some claim that a fixed trem aids bending as you travel less to the desired note. (i'm clueless here.)


of course there are other factors at play - a looser string tension does not contribute to twang, a different material for the nut and saddles might be detrimental to tone (some players feel it does change the tone somewhat. graphtech material softens the tone perhaps)

comments anyone?

(edited to provide additional info and to correct spelling mistakes)

 

[vernplum]

Good start.
May I offer some corrections:

b) string winding: how the strings go on the tuning post affects the tension.

No it doesn't. The string has to be at a certain tension to reach concert pitch, regardless of how it is wound.

tuning - tuning down to (say) Eb shortens the scale length to about 24" (if i am correct)

No - the scale length is the fixed distance between the bridge and the nut. Tuning down only reduces the string tension.

string tree - getting rid of string trees or loosening the screw that binds it down to relieve the pressure

Again, as in the winding theory, this is incorrect. The tension will remain the same to reach concert pitch. The break angle, any string trees or whatever behind the nut are irrelevant.

fretboards - maple boards add more resistance to bending versus rosewood.

Nothing to do with string tension - more to do with friction of skin against wood finish.

tremolos - some say that a floating trem aids bendability, some claim that a fixed trem aids bending as you travel less to the desired note. (i'm clueless here.)

Most people say that a fixed bridge allows for more accurate precise bending since with a floating, when you bend, you also increase the tension on the tremelo springs so the pitch flattens a little. This takes a certain amount of control, but obviously many people are able to do it. All it requires is a good sense of pitch and some practice. Some people 'block' tremelos (e.g. Clapton) or opt for fixed bridges.

 

[glblues]

thanks for replying!
my answers below:



No it doesn't. The string has to be at a certain tension to reach concert pitch, regardless of how it is wound.

(actually it does. if the string is wound all the way down to the base of the tuning post, it changes the break angle of the string which affects the tension.)


No - the scale length is the fixed distance between the bridge and the nut. Tuning down only reduces the string tension.

(well, what i meant that detuning to Eb (eg) changes the bendability from a 25.5" to a 24" scale - as in the same strings on a 25.5 tuned down to Eb will provide the same tension as standard tuning on a 24" scale guitar, hence "changing the scale length")


Again, as in the winding theory, this is incorrect. The tension will remain the same to reach concert pitch. The break angle, any string trees or whatever behind the nut are irrelevant.

(the angle behind the nut and the saddles make a big difference to string tension, just ask anyone with experience on the fender forums or gear page forums. In my personal experience, it makes a big difference too. eg. string thru versus toploading teles.)


Nothing to do with string tension - more to do with friction of skin against wood finish.

(the thread is also about playability too, not just about string tension as per the thread title)



Most people say that a fixed bridge allows for more accurate precise bending since with a floating, when you bend, you also increase the tension on the tremelo springs so the pitch flattens a little. This takes a certain amount of control, but obviously many people are able to do it. All it requires is a good sense of pitch and some practice. Some people 'block' tremelos (e.g. Clapton) or opt for fixed bridges.

(this is good, but i'll need a more thorough look at what people say on thr other forums. am still trying to decipher the info.)

 

[loathed]

speaking of string tension...what is the thickest string gauge you guys would recommend for my guitar? its an ibanez rg321mh fixed bridge.

im looking to experiement with different tunings like drop C, standard C etc etc...and im currently using a .09, which i know will not be able to drop to C, because it will be too loose...

recommendations?

 

[billthegeek]

Can also try using Eb tuning (drop every strings by 1 semitone) and capo your guitar on the 1st fret. Lowers string tension and action.