Bass buzzing after changing strings

[anghoonking]

I donnoe what happened, but i changed my bass strings today, then suddenly all of the strings at arnd the 1st to 3rd fret gt a very strong buzzing sound. and when i slide arnd the 1st to 3rd fret, it cant produce a sound. what happen?

 

[Guest]

your amp is off? :lol:

j/k. is your action very low? or is it very high? and what gauge of strings you using?

 

[anghoonking]

i am nt sure what an action is but does it mean the action of the bridge?
if so, i made it higher, but it dosent made much of a diff, just alittle.
i am nw using a 40,60,75,95 gauge. before i changed my strings was thicker. must i go for repairs?

 

[ahkiatt]

you may have a loose truss rod like mine... which produces a buzz... try putting your old strings back on and try if the buzz goes away.

 

[anghoonking]

uh oh, i threw the old strings away.....
any other things i can do?

 

[subversion]

the bass' neck, unlike its guitar counterpart, is more sensitive to tension change. when you re-stringed yours, the neck was relieved of the string tension & it literally 'expands' so whatever relief was originally there to counter string buzz, was altered.

no worries- the truss rod adjustment will cure this abberation, if you don't know what to do, bring it to a tech...

 

[rudy]

see from top of the neck down to the bridge,the strings should be parellel to the side fingerboard,if it warp inward,screw in your truss rod,anyway,what bass you using?i just change my 5 stringer and gotto adjust the bridge saddle abit

 

[anghoonking]

thx for all the replies man, i am using an ltd f-104 bass. tmr i might head to guitar 77 to adjust my bridge setting and ask them abt my prob see if they could help, i messed my bridge settings also, and i am nt sure hw to set it properlly...

 

[exin]

it's not very serious actually .. just a matter of truss rod and action setting.

i believe your previous set of strings were heavier gauge strings .. most probably .45 which is standard for most basses to be strung with. .40 is actually quite light and if you're a heavy playing i won't recommend a light string. Heavy as in not FAT/OVERWEIGHT but hard player on your strings.

no worries dude, your bass is fine

 

[anghoonking]

icic thx for telling me tht, but i still need to go, coz i need to ask them to help me set my bridge action and also i anyhow played with my bridge setting then like siao already, thx man, i gt alot of help frm u guys

 

[anghoonking]

nw my bridge settings the screw keeps getting lower and lower, i didnt touch it after i send my bass for the bridge settings at guitar 77. why is my bridge the screw keeps moving lower and lower by itself?

 

[exin]

possible that your saddle screws are loose ... i think it may just be that lah .. a few options ..

use some kind of removable glue to thread the screws down ...

change saddles ..

 

[reyrey]

Heavy as in not FAT/OVERWEIGHT but hard player on your strings.

HAHAHA,you funny la bro :lol:

 

[exin]

i said that because of my CMPB checkup trauma .. hahahaha ..

 

[stewartbass]

your problem is actually very simple to solve.

what happened was that when you changed your strings to a lighter gauge -
.45s to .40s you tension on the neck was lightened i.e. the truss rod that supported the .45s tension is now pulling less.
a simple adjustment is necessary.
-use the allen/hex adjustment tool that c/w with your bass
-sight your bass fron the headstock/nut area down to the end at the body
-you will see an elliptical space between the bass and the face of the neck/top of frets
-remember these words- 'RIGHTY TIGHTY-LEFTY LOOSEY' just as you would turning on your kitchen/bathroom tap at home
-always turn slowly and a little at a time
-if the space appears 'convex' you tighten (righty)
-if the space appears 'concave' you loosen (loosey)
one fool proof way to gauge is to fret the string down at the 1st fret (F on the 'E' string or C on the 'B' string and with the other hand fret the 20th fret on the same string, it should have a slight relief - a namecard should slide in effortlessly.
-your neck should now be straight-
-now connect a tuner and adjust intonation.
-play the open string and fret the harmonic at the 12th fret, the two notes should match on the tuner
-if the 12th fret is sharp, use the smaller hex key and compensate at the screw that holds the bridge saddle at the end of the bridge piece.
-now all your strings are in tune but...wait...
-my action is still too high, simple, lower to your comfort level at the bridge saddle height adjustment screws.
-if the strings buz at the first fret (F on the 'E' string) your nut might be worn out and u need to change it.

there free lesson that willl save you unecessary spending at shark infested guitar reapair shops.

'guitar repairs SHOULD NOT cost as much as auto repairs!'....stewartbass

 

[rottenramone]

'guitar repairs SHOULD NOT cost as much as auto repairs!'....stewartbass

agree

 

[anghoonking]

yea hell i agree man! i paid freaking $35 at guitar 77 just for adjustments la! :evil:

 

[exin]

you can learn how to adjust and setup yourself and afterward it'll be free! it's helpful in the long run.

 

[anghoonking]

yea, but sometimes when u all explain, some parts i do nt understand well enough, so i guess i have to experiment alittle bit, and see hw it goes

 

[ahkiatt]

experiment when you got one extra spare bass... that you know won't hurt if you destroy it... or need even more repairs... otherwise i think you may end up paying more fixing more problems... that's why it's called experiment. mho...