My String is not ALIGNED..
- Thread starter sLapshock
- Start date
anghoonking
New member
gt the same prob with u too a fewdays ago i kena tht, but today i did wad exin and stewartbass told me to do, adjust the bridge.sLapshock said:
you can view at one thread in here called 'bass buzzing something something' theres some part they gt teach me
anghoonking
New member
thanks man.. i do liao..anyway..
few question to ask..
1. at the bridge there, theres a screw that make the cylinder thign go forward and backward, what is that for? what setting is right?
2. what is the use of rod adjustment?
3. how to adjust intonation?
4. if my open string is e.g E (0) (means greeen LED) but when i press the 12 E string is E (-3,4) or E (+3+4) means not green.. is that intonation correct or can be better?
few question to ask..
1. at the bridge there, theres a screw that make the cylinder thign go forward and backward, what is that for? what setting is right?
2. what is the use of rod adjustment?
3. how to adjust intonation?
4. if my open string is e.g E (0) (means greeen LED) but when i press the 12 E string is E (-3,4) or E (+3+4) means not green.. is that intonation correct or can be better?
Brief answers to your qs:
1. That is for setting intonation, you can google for those information on how to diy.
2. The truss rod is for truss rod adjustment.
3. See A1.
4. Means that intonation is out, either too sharp or too flat. Basically it will be flat if the string length from the nut to the bridge is "too long" and vice versa. You gotta adjust the position and retune and test for intonation again everytime you change strings or adjust the truss rod.
1. That is for setting intonation, you can google for those information on how to diy.
2. The truss rod is for truss rod adjustment.
3. See A1.
4. Means that intonation is out, either too sharp or too flat. Basically it will be flat if the string length from the nut to the bridge is "too long" and vice versa. You gotta adjust the position and retune and test for intonation again everytime you change strings or adjust the truss rod.
Setting Intonation
To set the intonation of your bass guitar, you must lengthen or shorten the string by moving the string’s saddle backward or forward. You do this by tightening or loosening the intonation screws at the back of the bridge.
How to Set Your Intonation:
Using an electronic tuner, tune all the open strings to their correct pitches.
Starting with your lowest string, fret the string at the 12th fret. Make sure you press the string straight down. You want this fretted note to be in tune. It should be the same note as the open string.
Check the electronic bass tuner to see if you are flat (too low) or sharp (too high).
If you are flat, you need to shorten the string by moving the saddle forward.
If you are sharp, you need to add length to the string by moving the saddle backward.
After you adjust the saddle, double check the open string is still in tune.
Do the same for each string.
You will discover that it is impossible to get every single fret perfectly in tune. This is normal. Fretted instruments have a natural flaw where they can’t be perfectly intonated. You can just get really close. If you’re interested in why, look up “equal temperament” or “just intonation” in a music dictionary.
>>next step: setting bass pickup height
<<back to bass guitar setup guide
To set the intonation of your bass guitar, you must lengthen or shorten the string by moving the string’s saddle backward or forward. You do this by tightening or loosening the intonation screws at the back of the bridge.
How to Set Your Intonation:
Using an electronic tuner, tune all the open strings to their correct pitches.
Starting with your lowest string, fret the string at the 12th fret. Make sure you press the string straight down. You want this fretted note to be in tune. It should be the same note as the open string.
Check the electronic bass tuner to see if you are flat (too low) or sharp (too high).
If you are flat, you need to shorten the string by moving the saddle forward.
If you are sharp, you need to add length to the string by moving the saddle backward.
After you adjust the saddle, double check the open string is still in tune.
Do the same for each string.
You will discover that it is impossible to get every single fret perfectly in tune. This is normal. Fretted instruments have a natural flaw where they can’t be perfectly intonated. You can just get really close. If you’re interested in why, look up “equal temperament” or “just intonation” in a music dictionary.
>>next step: setting bass pickup height
<<back to bass guitar setup guide
Your original question seemed to be one on relative heights of strings. These are adjustable if you have saddles with adjustable heights, otherwise you have to physically alter the saddles. Most electric basses have adjustable saddles. The art that is lost now in the age of flat fingerboards, is to adjust the string action relative to the curvature of the fingerboard. This, given an set of strings with equitable tension, gives you balanced action. Some people prefer action that is not equally relative to curvature, and the instance I have seen this was where a player wished to pull or pop the thinner strings with greater ease, for the reason of excessive rotundity of digits. Otherwise there is really no reasonable point to level your strings without consideration of your fingerboard curvature.
rylche said:
This is silly and shows a gross misunderstanding of the mechanics and electronics of your instrument. You'd lower your pickups or polepieces to adjust electronic output, and you'd not make physical compensations for not understanding out the mechanics or electronics of your electronic signal.
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