A/B footswitches
- Thread starter reyar
- Start date
why do u need custom-made a/b switches and power supply?
even if you want a more versatile switching device for your myriad of pedals, you can choose something from www.loooper.com, which makes some pretty interesting looping switches - capable of much more complex efx loops than a regular A/B footswitch. In fact, they DO make custom loopers if you really wanna go thata way.
as for power supplies... do a search for the Jim Dunlop DC brick and other similar power sources. really not sure why you would need a custom-made one unless you run 50 pedals in a row so the normal power supplies cant provide you enough juice?
even if you want a more versatile switching device for your myriad of pedals, you can choose something from www.loooper.com, which makes some pretty interesting looping switches - capable of much more complex efx loops than a regular A/B footswitch. In fact, they DO make custom loopers if you really wanna go thata way.
as for power supplies... do a search for the Jim Dunlop DC brick and other similar power sources. really not sure why you would need a custom-made one unless you run 50 pedals in a row so the normal power supplies cant provide you enough juice?
theblueark
New member
Perfect timing! As I've mentioned about a month ago I'm building A/B boxes, true bypass boxes, loop selector pedals, and other signal routing pedals. All to custom specifications.
I've gotten the parts and have already built an A/B for myself, and a true bypass almost ready for sale. For now I have enough parts to build another 8 or so pedals.
The prices start from $70+ for a simple A/B box and slowly works upwards as you add functionality.
As a guide, here's how much the parts cost:
Enclosures: $15 small (111 x 60 x 27)
$20 large (120 x 95 x 30)
Footswitches: $20 each (heavy duty 3pdt)
Jacks: $3 each (Switchcraft)
LEDs: $2 each (Choice of red, green or yellow. Comes with bevels)
Blood and sweat: $30
I can customise it to almost any specifications you want. Where the jacks are placed, where the LEDS (and how many of them) are, where the footswitch is. I can also make combination pedals if you like, for example an A/B in A/B out pedal, a Loop selector with bypass both switch, an A/B with a tuner mute, 2 True bypass pedals in one casing. Just email me your specs and we'll discuss it ya.
Pictures:
The A/B box for myself. I'm using it to select between my tuner and my normal signal chain as I felt that the tuner sucked some of my tone. Also it mutes my guitar from my amp when I'm tuning.
The True bypass box awaiting finishing touch. I'm not sure if I should wire the LED to be ON when bypassed or not bypassed, so if anyone wants to buy it you can tell me.
I've gotten the parts and have already built an A/B for myself, and a true bypass almost ready for sale. For now I have enough parts to build another 8 or so pedals.
The prices start from $70+ for a simple A/B box and slowly works upwards as you add functionality.
As a guide, here's how much the parts cost:
Enclosures: $15 small (111 x 60 x 27)
$20 large (120 x 95 x 30)
Footswitches: $20 each (heavy duty 3pdt)
Jacks: $3 each (Switchcraft)
LEDs: $2 each (Choice of red, green or yellow. Comes with bevels)
Blood and sweat: $30
I can customise it to almost any specifications you want. Where the jacks are placed, where the LEDS (and how many of them) are, where the footswitch is. I can also make combination pedals if you like, for example an A/B in A/B out pedal, a Loop selector with bypass both switch, an A/B with a tuner mute, 2 True bypass pedals in one casing. Just email me your specs and we'll discuss it ya.
Pictures:
The A/B box for myself. I'm using it to select between my tuner and my normal signal chain as I felt that the tuner sucked some of my tone. Also it mutes my guitar from my amp when I'm tuning.
The True bypass box awaiting finishing touch. I'm not sure if I should wire the LED to be ON when bypassed or not bypassed, so if anyone wants to buy it you can tell me.
Will be good if I can have 2 boxes made locally at a lower price.theblueark
New member
No prob. Different market.
Differences:
Boss line selector has LOADS more functions. 6 looping modes and you can control the line volumes. But thus is buffered. Actually I remember it costing $110. Not too sure about this.
My pedals are all hard wired. No buffers used at all. For all you true bypass tone freaks.
Reyer I got your pm, but there are some good issues to talk about so I thought I'd share them.
I have a friend, who like you, has 2 pedals for his drive tone, and actually another 2 for his clean. And he has to step on 4 pedals just to change.
My solution for him is a loop selector pedal.
Its a pedal with 6 jacks. What you do is connect your guitar into the IN, and your amp into the OUT. Then there are 2 effect sends and returns for 2 of your loops. Stepping on the stomp switch will let you choose between either of the loops but not both. If you like I can add in an additional switch for you to bypass both, of course meaning adding another $20.
Here's an example
So you can connect your Drive pedals in Loop 1 (Send1 and Return1) and your clean pedals in Loop 2 (Send2 and Return2). Get the idea?
If you would prefer an A/B box to split, and a 2:1 box to join, I can do it but I don't recommend it. Because when you have two loops joined without a switch, it means both are sending the signal to your amp. And that means whatever noise that is generated by either loop will continue to go to the amp even if your guitar is not going through it.
Loop selector solution. Stepping on the switch will ground the other loop and make the left one live.
A/B split then 2:1 join solution.
Differences:
Boss line selector has LOADS more functions. 6 looping modes and you can control the line volumes. But thus is buffered. Actually I remember it costing $110. Not too sure about this.
My pedals are all hard wired. No buffers used at all. For all you true bypass tone freaks.
Reyer I got your pm, but there are some good issues to talk about so I thought I'd share them.
I have a friend, who like you, has 2 pedals for his drive tone, and actually another 2 for his clean. And he has to step on 4 pedals just to change.
My solution for him is a loop selector pedal.
Its a pedal with 6 jacks. What you do is connect your guitar into the IN, and your amp into the OUT. Then there are 2 effect sends and returns for 2 of your loops. Stepping on the stomp switch will let you choose between either of the loops but not both. If you like I can add in an additional switch for you to bypass both, of course meaning adding another $20.
Here's an example
So you can connect your Drive pedals in Loop 1 (Send1 and Return1) and your clean pedals in Loop 2 (Send2 and Return2). Get the idea?
If you would prefer an A/B box to split, and a 2:1 box to join, I can do it but I don't recommend it. Because when you have two loops joined without a switch, it means both are sending the signal to your amp. And that means whatever noise that is generated by either loop will continue to go to the amp even if your guitar is not going through it.
Loop selector solution. Stepping on the switch will ground the other loop and make the left one live.
A/B split then 2:1 join solution.
theblueark said:Perfect timing! As I've mentioned about a month ago I'm building A/B boxes, true bypass boxes, loop selector pedals, and other signal routing pedals. All to custom specifications.
I've gotten the parts and have already built an A/B for myself, and a true bypass almost ready for sale. For now I have enough parts to build another 8 or so pedals.
The prices start from $70+ for a simple A/B box and slowly works upwards as you add functionality.
As a guide, here's how much the parts cost:
Enclosures: $15 small (111 x 60 x 27)
$20 large (120 x 95 x 30)
Footswitches: $20 each (heavy duty 3pdt)
Jacks: $3 each (Switchcraft)
LEDs: $2 each (Choice of red, green or yellow. Comes with bevels)
Blood and sweat: $30
I can customise it to almost any specifications you want. Where the jacks are placed, where the LEDS (and how many of them) are, where the footswitch is. I can also make combination pedals if you like, for example an A/B in A/B out pedal, a Loop selector with bypass both switch, an A/B with a tuner mute, 2 True bypass pedals in one casing. Just email me your specs and we'll discuss it ya.
Pictures:
The A/B box for myself. I'm using it to select between my tuner and my normal signal chain as I felt that the tuner sucked some of my tone. Also it mutes my guitar from my amp when I'm tuning.
The True bypass box awaiting finishing touch. I'm not sure if I should wire the LED to be ON when bypassed or not bypassed, so if anyone wants to buy it you can tell me.
Do yo have ABY box??
theblueark
New member
Yes and no. My boxes do passive switching and if I do build an ABY, the Y would be connected passively, with no buffers or mixers.
What this means is that you have the scenario where if you connect 2 guitars to one amp, If you try to play them together, you might not get a good volume mix, becuase of the impedence and level matching problem.
Also if you try to play one guitar into 2 amps at the same time, you may also have an matching problem, though less likely.
I can build it, yes. But I am not sure if it may end up being the solution you want. How about you tell me what your problem is, then I'll see what I can do. Or 2nd option, I'll build the ABY, then I'll go over and let you try with your setup. If you happy you pay for it, no extra cost. If not I'll just keep it.
theblueark
New member
Correct. Except with better parts I guess. Which is why I don't really promote building this.
BUT the Boss line selector should be able to do the job you want. It features a mixing circuit so the levels are controlled. You might wanna check that pedal out.
DO NOT GET THE MORLEY A/B/Y.
It is passive and exactly the same as what I can build aka the Y jack and has the same problems.
BUT the Boss line selector should be able to do the job you want. It features a mixing circuit so the levels are controlled. You might wanna check that pedal out.
DO NOT GET THE MORLEY A/B/Y.
It is passive and exactly the same as what I can build aka the Y jack and has the same problems.
stillwater
New member
Sorry to hijack, as blueark uses the A/B to switch between tuner and his main chain, I'm wondering is it common for ppl to hook up their tuner via 2nd port of a stereo-output pedal? (ie BOSS CH1 has 2 output, mono(1st) goes to main chain which terminated at amp, 2nd goes to tuner) Thanks.
theblueark
New member
I just emailed David from Loooper to check.
My guess is that it is also passive. The people at www.loop-master.com also make passive pedals ABY's.
There should be very little issues when using the ABY to feed one guitar into 2 amps. Just don't try feeding 2 instruments into one output at the same time, the impedences likely won't match.
What exactly is your intended purpose of this ABY? If it's to feed your guitar to 2 amps, I have the confidence of building one for you to try out.
My guess is that it is also passive. The people at www.loop-master.com also make passive pedals ABY's.
There should be very little issues when using the ABY to feed one guitar into 2 amps. Just don't try feeding 2 instruments into one output at the same time, the impedences likely won't match.
What exactly is your intended purpose of this ABY? If it's to feed your guitar to 2 amps, I have the confidence of building one for you to try out.
theblueark
New member
Basically to split a signal into either or both of two locations.
For example, I use my A/B to select between my amp and my tuner, so that when i'm tuning, there is no signal going to the amp.
Professionals like Eric Johnson use it to choose between 2 amps, one for clean and one for dirty.
If you are have more than one instrument you can do it the other way around. Let say I have a 6 string and a 12 string, both connected through the A/B into one amp. I can select either of them, muting the other, without unplugging.
For example, I use my A/B to select between my amp and my tuner, so that when i'm tuning, there is no signal going to the amp.
Professionals like Eric Johnson use it to choose between 2 amps, one for clean and one for dirty.
If you are have more than one instrument you can do it the other way around. Let say I have a 6 string and a 12 string, both connected through the A/B into one amp. I can select either of them, muting the other, without unplugging.
theblueark
New member
Nope. No way to do that unless you physically go open up your amp and wire an out from your preamp and an in into your preamp. Not a job for me though, bring it to an amp tech to do that.
Here's Loooper David Boggs' email reply to my question.
"Passive- no need for a buffer (active) if wired correctly : )
I hope this helps. Please feel free to ask questions, and thanks!!
David
"
So I guess its the same wiring. As I said, most of the time it isn't a problem when putting one instrument into two amps.
theblueark
New member
Sorry, double post.
theblueark
New member
Nope if you want controlled delay repeats, what you'll need here is a pedal with a sound on sound function like the Boss DD-20, the line 6 DL-4, the Akai Headrush, or something like those.
Unless your wall of sound is a self-occillation of the pedals, for which you can try MrMisse and friend's truebypass with feedback loop pedal. You won't even need a delay pedal with this. It's called The Rock and only 10 have been made. Most have already been bough/reserved but you can try asking him if he has anymore. Or if they are willing to share the schemetics with me I can build it.
To be honest I've never tried one and I'm not exactly sure how they sound or how they work. Better to ask MrMisse on this question.
